NO automated interval shooting !!!!! NO TIME LAPSE on 100B!!!!

[Barry Green]

[doggies] “As for the DVX… should I always shoot for a little bit of red.. no more than one bar of red ?”
Each dot on the graph represents 2dB. The transition from white to red happens at the changeover from -12 to -10. So one or two or three dots of red are still well under the clipping limit. One dot of red = -10, two dots = -8, three = -6, etc.

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[Doggies]

thank you so much BARRY!!!! yes I am yelling my thank you.. : )

Well I just finished shooting 600+ hours (https://www.pullingjohn.com) of footage using a couple anamorphic lens (century optics)on a couple of pd-150’s.
YES 600 hours, 3 years, 3 continents, many many countries. The anamorphic lens was not perfect by any means. Needed MASSIVE light to get quaility images. Made 3 ESPN shows and intergrated some of the footage. Used black and white filter and high contrast to hide the anamorphics flaws (or my poor lighting- no budget!). : (

Anyway- I would love to shoot.. 24PA squeeze mode, thin line, I would LOVE that. .

I am a bit amprehensive because of squeeze mode quality. I read the book and watched the dvd. The zoom in on the GRASS(?) on the dvd showed the clarity difference between squeeze and 4:3. I think I can tolerate that minor lack of detail.

What would you do? Are you recommending the 24PA, thin line, squeezae mode?

How about the other settings? Gamma Cinelike?

Thanks a MILLION!!!

[Philip Boal]

I’d just pack another couple of tapes. Shoot the whole time-lapse in real time. You’re not moving the camera anyways. Then use your NLE to shorten the sequence to the appropriate time you want the time-lapse to appear. Sunrise & Sunsets happen within an hour. Longer sequences will involve changing tapes.