Justin,
Actually there are drawbacks for every technology right now.
LED has limited viewing angle. Black levels tend to be higher. Uneven backlighting issues.
Plasma has Automatic Brightness control but great off-axis viewing and excellent blacks.
LCD has lighter blacks, off axis issues, uneven backlighting.
OLED has the best blacks but poor off-axis. Pricy.
For critical color: there is the Dolby reference monitor at $40k. DLP projectors for film mastering.
For your situation, actually panasonic plasma’s (especially pro models) are popular in many grading rooms as a client monitor and sometimes as the main monitor. The more important issue is calibration, but that is possible for cheap with an i1 display pro probe ($250 and you can calibrate your GUI monitor as well) and free software: HCFR colormeter. https://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre-hcfr/hcfr-colormeter/
You can get most reasonable high end consumer displays in the ‘ball park’, as long as you don’t need absolutely ‘critical color’. I guess if you’re doing high end mastering, you wouldn’t be asking about these low end monitors anyway. The new Panasonic ZT60 is claimed as a reference studio grade display. It’s not available yet, but looks promising. The KURO was the closest to reference plasma made, and is still. But this new model looks promising. The important thing is High and Low RGB control, as well as gamma control, so you can dial the colors to true 6500k, and gamma of 2.2 – using your cheap probe and software setup. The Sony OLED is promising except for it’s poor off axis. I would probably wait for a next revision on that monitor. Actually once you use a big monitor 50″, you don’t want to go back to a small one, as you can really see a lot more detail and get an impression of the whole image. Just as they grade films in a theater, if you simulate what they see on TV on a similar size screen, then you’ll be closer to the mark. Especially important for fine edge masking, secondary isolations.
Most HDMI cards are only 8 bit, but then again to get a true 10 bit display will probably set you back more. For most DSLR originated content, it’s only 8 bit anyway, so you’re not going to magically get better quality with a 10-bit display. But if start doing a lot of SLOG or RAW material, you may want to step up to a SDI input display.
Any of the Blackmagic cards work fine with Resolve including the cheapest ones – like the intensity pro for less than $200.
Again, YMMV, so do your research, and have fun – if nothing else at least you’ll have a kick ass TV.
David Chai
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David Chai
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