Any Slider Shot Tips?

[John Sharaf]

Hi Spencer,

One trick I picked up from the manufacturer of the slider I own, known as the Original Slider (https://www.theslider.com/) is to use “painters sponges” on both ends as bumpers; they really work!

You’ll see on their website they make a motion controlled version which you operate with a Preston Microforce, which is a very precision controller, but my guess is that it’ll be beyond most folks budget.

Good luck!

JS

[Angelo Lorenzo]

So what kind of slider? Something with skateboard wheels on 1/4″ tube is not the same as a solid original slider.

Generally, with the cheaper sliders there is less rigidity so you can’t avoid some inherent shake/vibration. As for a consistent speed… well that’s just being a good operator.

Depending on your setup it may help to load the sled’s base with some additional weight (small shot bags) as this will lower the center of gravity below the camera and help with instability.

——————–
Angelo Lorenzo

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[Todd Terry]

I’m guessing you down own the one that John has… very few of us have that luxury (I certainly don’t). His slider will move an engine block as smooth as silk… and it ought to, they are not inexpensive.

One culprit of poor slider moves is simply equipment choice… either overweighting the one you have, or using a slider that is not up to the load that you are putting on it. I personally went through three different sliders before I landed on one that was workable for the load I usually put on it (I use the C300 which is only a 4 pound body… but fully rigged out and with the 10 pound head I use it stacks up to about 22 pounds). And frankly it’s still sometimes not as perfect as I like… I’ve often thought that one like John’s would be the ticket for me, but these days I’m really trying to cut down on gear size and weight his is pretty big and hefty. The weight actually helps the smoothness of the sliding move (just like a loaded dolly is smoother than a light one), but I’ve found extra weight just adds to the general instability of the rig which can show up as unwanted jitters and shakes.

The other thing is to make sure the track, rails, bearings (however yours is made), that everything is absolutely clean as a whistle. The tiniest bit of dirt, grit, dust, or any foreign gunk will definitely affect the smoothness of your shot.

T2

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Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com

[Spencer Honda]

Yeah I’m only a college student and I’m just using whatever equipment my school’s got (and it’s not that much). It’s not like I’m doing a big production here but I just want some simple tips to try to make it as smooth as possible.

I’m using a Konova K2 slider and it’s real short. I mean only 48 cm. I don’t have no motors or whatever automatic stuff higher productions use. I just have me and my hands.

[Todd Terry]

The Konova actually isn’t bad, especially for the money. I’ve used a K3.

I found it worked best if not overloaded, and the rails kept immaculately clean. The K3 has little end slider/bumpers that you use to keep the rails polished, I’m guessing the K2 does too. Use them freely and often.

You need to keep the bearings tight in that unit, too (although not TOO tight). You have to take the top plate off, but they are adjustable. Takes a couple of allen wrenches.

T2

__________________________________
Todd Terry
Creative Director
Fantastic Plastic Entertainment, Inc.
fantasticplastic.com