Tim Robinson
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You need these presets for JVC BR-HD50 deck to capture in 24p in Adobe…
https://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=3409
Capture all 24p in the new presets for JVC HDV 24p projects. Then capture all 30p in a HDV 30p project. Your footage is now able to be played with in it’s default system. Premiere should not break up these files. It will digitize over the standard firewire connection.Tim Robinson
tim@erobinsons.com
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With NVidia… go to your desktop and right click, if you don’t have “nview properties” in that menu just click properties.
Go to your display properties, settings tab, and click the adance button. In that window click to your video cards tab (should have the nvidia icon).
Look through your settings about your display properties.
Right now your prob. setup for mirror images.
I’m not sure how you setup premiere, i’m guessing you had it as a dual display where in display properties you had the “2nd” monitor (being your tv) as extended desktop and had premiere setup to display full screen video on that display.Am I warm?
Tim Robinson
tim@erobinsons.com
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There’s no simple answer, alot of what you need to do deals with your editing system. Try cross posting this in the FCP forum.
Before editing software improvements, you would have to correct it into the format you plan to export it to, in order to avoid problems. I believe FCP is strong enough to handel this on it’s backend, but I work in premiere.
Tim Robinson
tim@erobinsons.com
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Need more details. Using firewire device? another video card? hooking up TV to the NVidia card itself (TV output?)?
Tim Robinson
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The camera should have the setting. With all firewire, it sends the format you tell it to. So if you tell it to send widescreen, it will tell the device it’s in widescreen. That firewire device has its own settings for output. Cameras aren’t know for being a great “passthrough/preview” so it may not have the settings you need like VTR’s.
What type of camera is it?
Tim Robinson
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I like to use script Q…
https://www.script-q.com/
It works for PC and MACHINT: It has a 14 day “full” trial, but in windows if you just keep setting your windows calender back into that 14 day trial window (from the day you installed it) it will keep running in demo mode. (If you screw up, it doesn’t lock it, just change the date and rerun!)
Enjoy!
Tim Robinson
tim@erobinsons.com
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Just “act it out” and you’ll know what effects you’d like to do. Every “waking up” shot you’ve seen in a movie was based on the production’s crews ideas of what it would be. I doubt you’d find many the same. Some are as simple as blurry to in focus. Some are bloom effects.
I’d blur your eyes, rub them and then slowly try to readjust.
Like Joe said it’s all about setup. That has a lot to do with the storyline…
If your waking up in bright sunlight… If your waking up after a hang over… etc.I have to add to Joe’s ideas that think of the fact you have two eyes, not just one like a lens shows. (This brings up “acting it out”) FORCE your eyes out of focus and what do you get? I see two offset images that are blurry and stretched across each other.
Experiment, but remember you just need to sell the shot.
Tim Robinson
tim@erobinsons.com
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Not sure if I made myself clear, but that was the how-to I was refering too. I was looking for some tips/advice on how to do it more effecticly with better control of the lights in 3d space. Particular is hard to control to keep a steady/solid streak going as well. Sorta like WSVN’s light style.
Tim Robinson
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The setups above apply to all raid setups, I don’t even know why people would mess with software raids anyway.
Standard SCSI was fast enough for video editing and eSATA blows those speeds out of the water… so yeah, anything eSATA will be fast enough for editing.
If your computer comes with eSATA plugs… check to see if their 1.5 (SATA 1) or 3GB (Now called SATA 2, but double check this) speeds, if their the higher then use them. If not, get the card.
Tim Robinson
tim@erobinsons.com
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I’m not exactly sure what your asking… does the internal raid allow all types of raid setups or just 0?
As for “which raid” it depends on your RAID size and your priorities…
RAID 0
Is it fast? yes. Secure? no. RAID 0 just a faster style of hard drive control often setup for more space at a higher speed. If one of the drives burns out, the entire set is lost.RAID 1
Higher number, more secure. This is a basic mirror set…. say you have 2 drives, if one of the drives goes down, your data is safe since it’s already on the other. This is not a good choice if you have a LARGE array… see below.RAID 5
Is the most secure of those 3… it “stripes” your data across all the disks in the RAID setup. IT also keeps all your data safe if one drive goes down. This is also the most common raid setup.So if you had say a hard drive array that is
4 TB total, 1 TB on each disk… if you setup raid 1 it would be fast, but you’d only have 2 TB of space since your doing an idential mirror. If you setup raid 5, you’d have 3TB total space, because of the striping you only loose the space of 1 drive in the array. (Thus why RAID 5 is the most common because most people with a RAID setup use it for LARGE amounts of space)With any raid above 1.. if any one drive does down, you can replace the broken drive and the array will “rebuild” itself. In the mean time you can still get your data off, but if another drive breaks before you fix it… you’ll loose everything. Unless you use RAID 6 (hard to find) then you can lose up to 2 drives… but again, lose 3 and your out of luck.
Check out this link for a visual look at how RAID’s work.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redundant_array_of_independent_disksTim Robinson
tim@erobinsons.com
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Corporate Video Editor