Sydneys
Forum Replies Created
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See if you can rent a gyro setup from a video rental house… Typically, this may run you in the area of $250 a day or less, (You might get a deal for $150 or so) and hang this between two pieces of anchored rubber hosing, or some sort of semi long (At least 18 inches or so) elastic or heavy duty rubber bands… You will be amazed at the results…
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I actually don’t recommend used steadicam gear, mostly because of the vest… After time, it sort of becomes a living part of the operator… Also, the market for large rigs is extremely small, so typically the depreciation is very low… Considering new, and for a betacam size rig, you can go relatively inexpensively to Varizooms site, ($4,000-$8000) or Glidecams site, (Around $8,000 and up) There are other companies that make mid range rigs, but the ones I mentioned are the most well known, when not including the high end rigs, ($75,000 and up)
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Well, you’re actually getting into a more complex area here… Some cameras, like the one you mentioned, do eliminate pixels to achieve the DV widescreen effect… But, not everything works this way… I think the software treats it something like 853 by 480, (Someone may correct me on this) so yes, you would basically stretch to fit… The difference there is, you’re not losing any pixel resolution when the camera creates its own 16X9 image… Even high end HD cheats a little… Both Sony HDCam and cheaper HDV actually record the image at 1440X1080, and stretch to fit at 1920X1080… The top of the line cameras (Arri D20, etc.) are really the only cameras that don’t cheat…
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First off, what is your destination for your project? Are you upconverting to film? (Then yes, the 24p conversion is an integral part of the process) Or, do you simply plan to out put it to DVD? This should be the only factor as far as changing frame rates/interlacing. If the camera shoots 50i and the DVD plays back the same where you live, you shouldn’t be converting anything… Leaving it unchanged will bring you the least headache… Some folks think the 24p “Film Look” is cool because this is the frame rate that film uses, but a lot of folks like myself feel it’s a waste of time to do this… Mainly, it was shot on a DV camera, no one will make the mistake thinking it was shot with a 35mm film camera… Let the subject matter speak for itself…. Just my opinion… If you like the 24p look, nothing wrong with that, and if the camera/editing software do this natively, then happy editing!
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They’ve got a cell phone in Japan that does true uncompressed 2K and has 9000X digital zoom… My cousin has one… Doesn’t have caller ID though…
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You’re not seeing things, (Very perceptive by the way, many people do not notice this) You are actually losing pixels and image quality when that particular camera goes into 16X9 mode. The best way is to frame the shot, knowing you will crop later. How I used to do this is, I didn’t have any tools within the camera to frame this, so I would simply draw directly on to the glass with a sharpie until I got the hang of it… After a while, I didn’ really need the help… Some people would tape paper onto external monitors and frame their shots this way… Pretty much all editing programs these days have a cropping tool built into their basic video effects tools, and all you have to do is drag and drop this effect on to your time line, and there you are! (All the effect does is put a black bar in the correct position on the top and bottom… It doesn’t remove pixels in the middle like the camera does.)
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Like Frank above me said, use a monitor, and take your eye out of the viewfinder… In the early days, every now and then, I would ask people to look off to the side of the camera, even though there was no one there, just because that’s what “The Boss” wants to see… That never worked, as the interviewee always got flustered, and forgot to look there, since it was me asking the questions… It’s far better to put a face there, so the subject doesn’t have to think too much, and everything just flows better…