[Steven Gonzales]

You can get to a timecode value from minutes with a formula in excel.

If your minutes are in cell A1, then the formula in another cell would be:

=(INT(A1/60))&”:”&(MOD(A1,60))&”:00:00″

int function divides minutes by 60, rounding down to get hours. Mod divides minutes by 60 and gives the remainder to get minutes, and since you don’t have seconds and frames, you can just display zeros there.

[Steven Gonzales]

At the risk of turning the forum too political, the American Civil Liberties Union is an organization where those concerned with such actions can find information and unite for a greater voice.

Also, the Electronic Frontier Foundation has clear information on Travel Screening and other civil liberties transgressions, especially in the area of media access where many of us work.

[Steven Gonzales]

Yes. Here’s an example (don’t know anything about this company or device; just so you can see what they look like).

https://www.nitroav.com/product/444/

[Steven Gonzales]

Even if they worked together, your firewire bus will only communicate at the speed of the slowest device, so you won’t get fireware 800 throughput when the deck is attached.

The suggestion for a separate card, and thus a separate bus, will also give an additional speed benefit.

[Steven Gonzales]

I haven’t used the M25U, but I used it’s little brother, the M15U.

I had an issue when we tried to force DV recording of a DV timeline with the HDV/DV select menu set on AUTO and it didn’t work via firewire. We had to set the menu item not on AUTO but on DV.

Maybe check that and make sure it’s set to HDV if that’s your timeline format.

Here’s a manual if you don’t have one:

https://www.gearbox.com/support/manuals/Sony/Sony%20HVR-M25E.pdf

[Steven Gonzales]

Here’s a program for removing Final Cut Studio. I haven’t used it, so I have no personal experience:

https://www.digitalrebellion.com/fcs_remover.htm

[Steven Gonzales]

I’ve had good luck with the JBL LSR25P.

They are a little deficient in bass (there is a large model, 28P I think), but they seem dead on accurate, and I even found the schematics online, and they sell all parts, so I can keep them going easily (likely only the potentiometer will ever need replacing).

Coupled with a sub, these do the job.

https://www.jblpro.com/pages/recording/lsr25p.htm

[Steven Gonzales]

If the director doesn’t have money yet to finish shooting, then you should tell them to shoot HDV. This is a movie without a plan, and most likely it will crash and burn.

Keep it as simple as possible, and tell the director to get their mind on the story and forget about adding any more formats into the mix.

I’ve been down this road, and it’s a stressful ride ending with a crash into a brick wall.

Keep It Simple. “The important thing is to get it done, not to screw around with multiple formats. If the story is important, it will survive. Fussing over formats is a sure sign of a director that doesn’t know what they’re trying to say.

[Steven Gonzales]

Power (P) measured in watts = Current (I) measured in amps * Electromotive force (E) measured in volts.

So a 45W power draw (the transformer on this portable computer I’m using), from a Electromotive Force source of 120 Volts (approx. supply in the US), would be a Current (I) of 45/120, or .375 Amps (I).

So if you add up all the power of the devices you’re plugging in, and divide that by 120 (or even 100, to give yourself a 20% margin) then you’ll know how many amps you’re drawing.

So using that 100 volts with it’s margin of error, you would not want more than 2000 watts on a 20 amp circuit, or 1500 watts on a 15 amp circuit.

[Steven Gonzales]

If you have another older computer, you may be able to attach a firewire cable between them, start your new computer in firewire Target disc mode (hold T while booting), and then use Disc Warrior from the old computer.