Steve Crow
Forum Replies Created
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Yeah it sounds to me like trying to use your camera as a card reader is not fully successful, you’ll have to get a card reader.
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John, that’s a great list of gear to start off with, you made fine choices, can’t critique a thing. Of course you will continue to add to your setup over time but this is a solid foundation you’ve created. Well done.
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Not to ask a stupid question but you do have both the wireless lav transmitter AND the wireless receiver turned on don’t you? If both are not on you will get a loud hissing sound which is what made me think about it.
Otherwise I suggest you contact JuicedLInk or see if they have a user forum.
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Yes I agree with everything Bill and Andy said. But when I shoot in full manual mode and use the AV button/scroll wheel combo to adjust my exposure to what the camera is suggesting, it changed the shutter speed.
Being in video mode on full manual I didn’t have aperture priority or any other mode like that in operation so it’s interesting to me that the camera opted to change shutter speed (which I changed back by the way)
In other circumstances would the camera have changed the ISO or aperture? I may have already been at the lowest ISO when this test was conducted – so maybe it has some kind of order it goes though to change the exposure like “first try ISO, if you can’t do that try shutter speed and if that can’t be changed then adjust the aperture.”
Like I said, I don’t know the camera’s logic I am just trying to understand it.
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Thanks Michael, I hope you don’t mind some additional questions about exposure.
First off, what does the camera consider “correct” exposure? How does it arrive at the conclusion that I am over, under or just right exposed? I consider exposure to be mostly an artistic, versus a technical choice, but the camera must have some measurement-driven formula to decide what is “correct” exposure and what is not.
I did some quick experiments to find out in more detail what is actually going on when I move the marker of the exposure compensation ruler back to middle.
In my experiment I found that the camera changed my shutter speed in order to get the exposure IT wanted. I, however, wanted to keep my shutter speed as is so I instead changed the ISO or aperture to get the same effect as what the camera wanted.
Do you think it would ever change the ISO or f-stop as I move the marker or does it only change the shutter speed?
Last Question, if I want to purposely under expose a shot for example, do I again use the same AV button and scroll wheel combo but this time move the marker to the left of the middle of the ruler by one or two or three stops?
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Hi Phil,
Well, that’s certainly what I am seeing. But I have run across lots of still images that show all the info being displayed on the screen along with the image itself, how are those done then?
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Have you tried just doing a file/import instead?
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Good point, bringing a backup camera will not only give you a bit of piece of mind but give you more flexibility in your shooting options by having 2 cameras running simultaneously…you can always rent the T2i cheaply for a few weeks and share lenses with what you already have.
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Noah, since it sounds like you’ve tried both, is the 1.4 easier to focus than the 1.8 as I surmised? In other words do it have more, errr…”throw” meaning you have to twist it further to get the same amount of focus change? Or are you still doing micro-adjustments?
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I think you’ve gotten some super-good advice already on this thread so I don’t have much to add except consider upgrading your 50mm to the 1.4, for about $350 – maybe even before getting your next zoom (or primes)
Here’s why, it’s “faster” but even better from my point of view is that the focus ring is much, much wider and easier to grab a hold with. I SUSPECT that it will be much easier to focus.
With the 1.8 (which I have too) a tiny, tiny movement to the right or left can be all that stands between a shot being in or out of focus, the focusing ring is SUPER sensitive so it’s not easy to get critical focus.