Steve Crow
Forum Replies Created
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In terms of video performance the 7D and the T2i are very similar – I don’t know the other two cameras you mentioned
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Nikon has something similar – – what you want is the file that contains the “EXIF” data – in Canon it’s called the .thm file but Nikon may call the file something else – it has one though! 🙂
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That is the kit lens I believe and unfortunately it is too slow and is not a constant aperture – a great starter lens is either the Canon 50mm 1.8 for about $100 or the Canon 50mm 1.4 for $300 which is beautiful and easier to focus than the 1.8…starting with prime lenses is a great way to learn your camera and you will be very happy with the 50mm – over time you can get other lenses but start with this one!
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I believe what the 680 lines posting may have been about is image sharpness as evaluated by someone filming a resolution chart and evaluating how many lines they could see clearly or something like that.
Would it surprise you to learn that most DSLR video pros turn the sharpness of their cameras all the way DOWN to zero? Sharpness is a quality that photographers really need but when applied to video the opposite is almost (not entirely) true. A sharp picture is like bad video from camcorders where everything is in perfect sharpness – cinematic film has a much softer look – therefore it’s not meant to be sharp.
Bottom line, you will LOVE the look of the T2i with a good fast lens attached…
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My Canon creates .thm files for every video I film. This file has all the details of the camera settings for that clip including ISO….simply take the memory card out of your camera and place it in a card reader and you will see these files – again, one for each video clip.
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I’ve never encountered this myself but I guess one thing you could try next time is to turn off all the overheads and just see if you can light with your LED’s – failing that you have to use gels to make your LEDs more fluorescent like (green?) so that they match better.
In theory you could also replace the fluorescent tubes with ones that more closely match your LED’s color temperature but that seems like a pretty extreme solution if you are not prepared for it.
A question for you – was the color problem apparent in your DSLRs LCD? I would think it would be hard to detect unless you zoomed in or were using something like a loupe to magnify the image on the camera’s LCD screen.
How you fix this in editing now is something I don’t know offhand so I will pay attention to this thread to learn with you…good question!
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I created a rig to hold my Wireless mic utilizing parts from a company called Bracket1
Here’s a brief video I put together showing how it all fits together….works pretty well for me but it’s not a shoulder mount solution – works best on a tripod or possibly hand held.
Steve
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Interesting rig, would love to see a few pictures and maybe a clip or two from the camera.
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I’m not all the interested in the swivel LCDs and won’t pay extra for it, here’s why.
In order to film shallow depth of field videos I have to use a Z-Finder that shields and magnifies the LCD screen so that it can be seen in bright outdoor settings. If the LCD swivels – I could use my Zacutto Z-Finder – it’s only made to work when the LCD is in the flat/normal position.
There are external monitors you can buy to use with your DSLR and, in fact, Zacutto’s latest version of the Z-Finder type device is that kind of form factor – so maybe with one of those I could then get away with using the swivel LCD – but for right now it’s not a high priority at all.
I am more jazzed about my new 4 foot mini crane/jib that is arriving today…whoppeee!!! Gonna get my camera flying!
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If you are going to be filming for a slow motion effect, I would shoot at the 1280×720 60 frames per second mode and then look for a shutter speed closest to 1/120th of a second. After that – don’t touch the shutter speed! (you can play around with it later!)
Start there…you will see the slow motion effect when you bring the footage in a timeline that is set up for 30 or 24 frames per second. There’s plenty of info on the Web about this technique – start with the basic formula I’ve just given you and then you can make adjustments from there – it might be a good idea to do some test shots before your big event of some fast moving objects – even if it is just cars along the highway or skateboarders.