Steve Crow
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I just looked at your clip for the first time now and actually your pan was quite moderate in speed and I didn’t see the symptoms I normally associate with JellyCam. The shuddering could be your tripod head was sticking a bit, but I didn’t notice any flickering. Not much help I know.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
CMOS sensors suffer from what is often called “JellyCam” which happens when you try to whip pan the camera…straight lines appear to bend. The only solution is to pan the camera slower.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
https://digital-photography-school.com/playing-with-fire-how-to-photograph-fire
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Yes, since what you are talking about are the white balance options they do change the quality of the captured image. Picture styles are a separate control and so are not the same thing. You can change the white balance in editing as you point out. I often use automatic white balance but I have also on occasion done custom white balances.
The custom picture style that I wrote about (which was first highlighted by Philip Bloom and other well known DSLR video gurus) are intended to create a “flatter” image, with less noise that color grades better in editing. So the desired outcome is to give you the best possible footage to work with in After Effects or whatever editing/color grading tool you are using.
The in-camera sharpening algorithms in particular are considered to be too aggressive and once that in camera sharpness is “baked in” to your footage, it’s hard to work around that. You may or may not notice any differences if you are relying on the LCD screen, on your computer monitor the differences should be much more noticeable.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
“(My wide angle lens can’t go below 4.0 in AP.)”
I don’t understand your acronyms …what do you mean by AP? Are you meaning aperture priority? How far open or “low” your lens can go is a matter of how it is constructed, not by what mode your camera is in. The less expensive kit lenses will often only go down to an aperture of 4.0 – that’s part of what you are paying for when you buy more expensive, “faster”, lenses – they will have apertures that can down to 1.4 or in some extreme cases even lower.“I know what it is and I know it is below the battery icon on the information screen on top”
Judging by your description of the information screen and where the exposure compensation meter is it sounds like you are talking about being in still photography mode, not “movie” mode. In movie mode the exposure compensation meter is more in the bottom middle, right after the aperture indicator (I am talking about viewing the LCD screen not using the smaller viewfinder window closer to the top of the camera).See page 152 of your user manual.
” I changed the shutter speed to decrease the over exposure.”
For a more filmic look , it is highly suggested that you KEEP your shutter speed at twice the frames per second, so if you are shooting 24fps video then the shutter speed should be KEPT at 1/50 which is as close as you can get to 48 (2 x 24=48)I consider my shutter speed LOCKED at 1/50th and never move it…I don’t use shutter speed to control exposure but rely on ISO, aperture and ND filters to do that. Newbies always want to do what you did…changing the shutter speed for video is only done to achieve special effects – like what was done for the movie “Saving Private Ryan” – but save that for later, right now stick with the basics is my advice.
“shutter speed stopped at 60, but could go lower if I was in a brighter environment.”
This indicates to me that your camera is not set in full manual mode for video, read page 153 and make sure your mode dial is set to M“Why do I need to focus at all?”
In theory if you set your aperture to anything higher than 22 you would have pretty deep focus and everything should be more or less in focus…however that is one of the major hallmarks of what separates old school video of the 80’s from cinematic style videos which are more like movies. The reason to focus is that it tells the viewer what in the frame they should be focusing on and plus it makes for a more pleasing image in most cases. Since you are just starting out consider it a firm and fast rule that can never be broken that you must focus your camera on something…trying to use a DSLR like a handicam / camcorder is not the way to go.“…even in the photographs he had to focus on something?”
Yes, yes. Not focusing is like learning to drive a car and saying to the driving instructor “well why do I have to turn the steering wheel, if I keep to straight roads can’t I just keep my hands on my lap instead?”Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Try this as an experiment and I think you will be quite pleased:
1. Put your camera in full manual mode for video
2. Go outside
3. Select 1080p 24fps as your video shooting mode
4. Set your shutter speed to 1/50
5. Set your ISO to 200
6. Set your aperture to 2.8 or below and focus on something.
7. Now use the exposure compensation dial to get the exposure indicator in the middle of the scale. (If it still too bright and your indicator is off to the right, then either move to an area outside that has more shade or attach an ND filter to your lens.)
I can almost guarantee you that there is nothing wrong with your camera. I haven’t addressed custom picture style settings here only because I assume that if you have turned your camera sharpness down manually then you would already be aware of that and know that you can turn it back up but that gets us into a whole other topic.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
As Bill said:
1) No, a matte box isn’t needed, in fact I hard ever even used a lens hood for video although I own one
2) On the more expensive side – the usual recommendation I give for ND filters is the 8 stop Fader ND but there are other “Fader” type ND filters that allow you to use one filter instead of having a set of filters each at a different level of light reduction. It’s so super convenient I practically rate this as a “must have” piece of kit. There’s a company that is very well regarded called B&W that makes great ND filters but their prices are going to be up there and it sounds like you are looking for a more economical solution.
3) If you are looking for inexpensive solutions for mic’ing interviews, have you seen the Rode lavalier mic that works with an iphone? I’ve been considering these for when I need to quickly mic someone on the cheap and I’ve already used up my two Senhessier G2 lavaliers on other subjects. With the Rode iphone lav you just have the talent put their iphone in their pocket (after installing the free recording app) and then hide the cable which clips to a collar or something. At the end of the interview you have to make sure to get the audio file from the person’s iphone of course, – the app handles that.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Check the data rate of your videos – I think you will find it is super high. Data rate is listed as either Kbps or Mbps.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
No worries Jessica, all the best to you
Steve
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
When you “delete” a file off a storage card (or a hard drive for that matter) all you are really doing is “marking it for deletion” – in other words telling the card that the space is available to be written over and used again…until that physically happens, the data is actually still there and can be recovered by “unmarking it” – so I am thinking what you are seeing are deleted files that remained on the card and haven’t yet been written over
It’s not clear to me if you actually completed the entire recovery process or if you were only looking at a preview of the recovery. It MAY turn out that if you actually completed the recovery you would find the video you expect but because the card’s “table of content” got messed up the preview was from early in the day.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com