Steve Crow
Forum Replies Created
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When you say “hacked” I think you are talking about the alternate “Magic Lantern” firmware upgrade. As you can see from their download site here: https://builds.magiclantern.fm/#/ – the software is customized to each specific Canon camera model so because you were using 5D firmware in a 7D it’s not surprising it caused a crash. I’ve heard of Magic Lantern crashes where the only way to resolve was to take the batteries out of the camera, so that’s not unusual however Magic Lantern is considered actually very stable in the vast majority of cases.
Steve Crow
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There have been lots of people here on this forum that have experienced corrupted cards too, I’d suggest you research some of those past threads to see what worked for others. Here is a start for you but I’m sure there are more:
https://forums.creativecow.net/search.php?q=corrupt+card&f%5B%5D=280
Steve Crow
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This video review might be of some help to you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=21&v=SPHAz-KHpWw
Steve Crow
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I am wondering if what you are seeing is a moire pattern because the paint actually has some texture to it that the camera is trying to resolve but can’t. Post an example clip for us to check it out..Just an idea.
Steve Crow
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The lav mic itself needs to be powered in order to work – for instance a “body pack” style lav mic such as I have from Senheisser , the EW-G2 if I remember the model number correctly. Simply plugging it in directly to the Zoom won’t work. In my wireless system, the lav mic sends the audio signal via radio to the receiver pack which is powered. What I do then is connect the receiver pac (also powered) to my H4N using a XLR connector.
Steve Crow
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Hey Tom,
“I saw a post of your on 30vs60 FPS. Any recommendations if my objective isn’t what I’m going to do with the footage after but the immediately live display of the recording”
I don’t know if you were referring to something I posted but here are my thoughts anyways. FOR ME I think of 60fps as something to use when I know I want to create a slow motion effect with that video later on during editing. I shoot and deliver my video the vast majority of times at 24fps so I don’t even go as high as 30 because I associate that with DV video, rightly or wrongly.
For a live screening situation like your are describing, you may notice the video on the screen is:
* More jerky or jittery at 60fps than 30fps…I have trouble sometimes noticing the difference myself but people with better eyes than mine say there is a more “staccato” like feeling to the video and often refer to the battle scenes on the beach in the opening of the movie “Saving Private Ryan” as an example – although I am not sure what frame rate or shutterspeeds they actually used. You can research that here if you want: https://cinemashock.org/2012/07/30/45-degree-shutter-in-saving-private-ryan/
* More “video like” (as opposed to cinematic)
Steve Crow
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I suggest checking out the Metabones website at https://www.metabones.com which has both adapters and adapters + speedboosters that may work for you.
I don’t know one way or the other in regards to overheating, I suggest you do some Google research to answer that.
Steve Crow
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“If I remember right Steve, you tend to favor Sony and Panasonic, and as far as I know, not a lot of their lenses are constant aperture (but “as far as I know” isn’t very far when it comes to those lenses!), so you can be forgiven for not knowing Canon’s terminology. “
Thanks for the thought but actually I shoot exclusively (for now) with Canon so I don’t have this excuse as to why I didn’t know this…guess it slipped by me. Somehow I was thinking of constant or fixed aperture in the same way as a prime lens with a single focal length.
The T-stop issue clouds the whole thing for me again however because what I understand you saying is that the exposure may still darken as you zoom in despite the F-stop staying the same. The reason why that happens you explained quite well but then I have to ask, aren’t you then losing one of the benefits of paying for a more expensive fixed aperture lens – at least when shooting in manual mode? I can see that in an aperture priority mode the camera would compensate for this “darkening” by increasing the ISO and/or assigning a slower shutter speed so you may not even notice – but in manual mode you’d have to do that adjustment yourself.
Steve Crow
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Wow Blaise, I’ve just been schooled! 🙂
I always thought that a fixed aperture lens meant it had ONLY that one aperture to select from throughout its entire focal range (24-105mm in this case) but what I guess you are saying that F4 is the most open aperture available on that lens that works throughout the entire focal range but that at the same time you can still shoot at 5.6, 8,11,16 and 22. Is that right?
Would those other apertures beyond 4.0 also be available then throughout the entire range or only part of it or….?
Steve Crow
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Dude, that lens is fixed aperture at 4.0 meaning that’s the only aperture it has!! 🙂
Steve Crow