[Rob Manning]

Wow, the bloom is off the white rose.

Seriously, that’s no fun and I’m sorry you are not getting the results aligned.

IT might be that you will have to use your spidy sense because in camera metering isn’t always dialed in dependent on focus mode, (spot etc.) and other what if’s.

My lizard limited experience suggests a Fader Grad, and possibly a used analog incidence meter. I picked one up for 70 bucks last year.

Does anyone have one or another of either you might borrow to get through the project?

DSLR’s have good metering but…

Perhaps someone else might have better advice.

Have you tried the manufacturer’s forums? Almost a camera (photo) question perhaps?

Good luck,

Rob

[Rob Manning]

As mentioned, using a camcorder set up might be easier to manage.

DSLR’s can be used for separate cameras, but, it seems you are relying on the three wire cable (L/R analog audio, Coax 75ohm video) and not the HDMI correct? Hence low rez, as you allude.

Does the school already have the cameras?

If so that answers the question, however, unless these are say, Nikon D7000 models, you will have the issues of 12 minute takes, the Nikons shoot for 20 minutes but that’s not really the point.

One can overlap shots from angles to compensate for the heat trip switch, or use Nikons which do not have that issue, by turning off the shot and restarting before the trip goes off, coordinated by comm sets.

Using separate DSLR’s would require on camera audio, and a clap slate, or, a signal in the headsets to have everyone state the actual time like they do in the war movies, something to synch too later with audio captured with a stand alone recorder. “OK on three everyone tap the camera body twice” or something like that.

Also, especially for night work, the lenses for DSLR’s are going to be of some importance, getting by with an f3.5 or higher, is going to be tricky unless the lighting is steady and the cameras are not panning. Otherwise, you will need to use f1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 or 2.8 lenses, which still present challenges, the lower f stop the better.

Frame rate and ISO, will also be key, but all of it can be worked out ahead of time. The Nikon only shoots at 24fps, @ 1080 so set the frame rate at 50 (twice the frame per second 48 technically) it’s an inverse rule from the film days in digital. Canons have multiple frame rates to use.

Ultimately, using a camcorder set up, will likely be easier all the way round, unless as I mentioned, the school already has DSLR’s with video on-board, then it’s a limit on ISO, some max at 3200 others at 6400, or above (Nikon’s D3S is 12,800). You’ll likely be shooting at around 800 if lights are bright, lower otherwise.

I’m sure you will work something out, good luck!

Rob

[Rob Manning]

Hello Justin,

Step rings can cost around $30 or more, or, less than $10 at places like Samy’s Camera on the West Coast for generic versions.

The link you show, is DOA.

The ND Fader is what you want to add to the gear correct? These are not the same as the ND Filter (AKA Grad) which have a horizon line across the filter used to try and separate bright sky, or sea, salt flats etc. from the rest of a composition.

The ND Fader, is two filters, one which rotates (Polarizer) allowing for a 4 to 8 stop adjustment in collected light and are a must for field or studio capture in HDslr video.

Prices spread across a range and (I’m not certain) but they vary based upon glass/plastic optics and brand.

I bought the largest one to fit my 70-200 and 24-70 which thread at 77mm, but instead of buying the same brand (Genus) filter adapter rings, I bought generics for the other threaded lenses, 52, 58, 62, and 67 which cover our lens locker generally.

The Genus company are fine folks, but on a budget I purchased Kenco adapters all five for about the price of a single Genus.

Not sure what those differences are, perhaps aircraft grade aluminum or something like that.

Also, if you buy in a store, be sure to make the selection for step up or step down, as there are both and not all sales folks know which is which.

If I’ve stated the obvious on the subject, it’s because the link would not fly, hence the explanations. Besides, I was chasing around another forum using the incorrect nomenclature and just wanted to be sure you meant ND Fader.

HTH’s,

Rob

[Rob Manning]

Thanks again,

These folks are based here in the Los Angeles area. Most of the stores (Pro) have them for sale I’m sure.

Thanks again,

Rob

[Rob Manning]

Robert,

Thanks for chiming in.

Your advice is appreciated, I’ll reset the mission.

You are correct, it’s not 24/7 but it is the focus, taking up a significant part of each day, well into the wee hours.

” 5 yes, but a fast external video drive over eSata or USB3 is enough for multiple streams DSLR footage in to premiere.”

So these outperform the 7200 RPM gadgets then?

Is there a brand (that’s) preferred?

I’ll dig in search as well.

Many thanks,

Rob