Rick Wise
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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Looks like the Parabeam puts out more light than a 4×4 or a Diva-400. Kino Flo claims it has the output of a 1.5K tungsten light — and of course, makes for harder shadows. It also weighs over 17 lbs, and costs over a grand.
The Diva 200 is only 8.5 lbs, and for the purposes you cite, seems to me would make a better fit. There are cheaper alternatives, though I don’t yet know how good they are.
Let us know what you pick, and how happy you are when you use it in the field!
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
For a backlight and/or fill, you obviously need less punch than your key. Why not go for a Diva 200 or equivalent? FloLight makes a similar unit for much less money. (https://www.prompterpeople.com/flolight.php). Another option is to go with a small tungsten unit and 1/2 blue it for a warm backlight and/or fill. Any of these solutions saves you money and weight compared to another 4-bank unit.
I am curious about which Chinese Diva knock-off you found can use Kino bulbs.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
For rock and roll, a lot of this works great — to my eyes anyway. The best shots: when there’s a light visible in the background, and the face is partially lit. I think your main “problem” is where you are placing the lights: way too much lighting from the front. I’d place at least two and maybe 3 as back lights: one from left rear, one from right rear, and one rear-center. I’d place one more side/front left, and side/front right. And the final one I’d place relatively far back into the theater for just a little front fill.
When shooting from the left side, I’d kill or else scrim down the light directly behind you; ditto when shooting from the right side (I presume you are using one camera, with playback.)
You might also consider placing the front left and right lights very low down; or, take your front middle light and place it very low down
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
That’s a terrific idea!
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Whatever you can do to hang the light above and behind you. There are many, many methods. Be inventive.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
I’m afraid I gave up on ProType long ago. I tried the above tutorial, but still had endless problems. I just use the old style type, and animate it if I need to. Bummer. This add-on is a major pain.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
You can measure the intensity with a light meter. But don’t sweat it — just make it small, light, and LOOK at the results. Everyone’s head is different. Does it look OK to you? Too hot? Too dark. Adjust accordingly.
45º above horizontal means just what it says: 45º above the height of your face. That’s a very rough estimate. Remember, 90º would be straight up. So it’s half way between level with your face and straight up. Obviously, were it straight up, it would be directly over your head. You can place your arm at the height of your face, and then lift it 1/2 the way to straight up. Project forward, and place your light there.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Bingo! That’s it! Thanks, Ed.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Bingo! That’s it! Thanks, Ed.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Bingo! That’s it! Thanks, Ed.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com