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Rick Wise
August 9, 2010 at 8:06 pm in reply to: New HMI – soft or fresnel

Really nicely done, Todd. The hot out-of-focus backgrounds help sell this look. I suspect there are times that you also scrim down the rake on the shadow side of the face. In all the location work I’ve done I’ve never even thought of this solution. Can’t wait to try it!

Rick Wise
director of photography
San Francisco Bay Area
and part-time instructor lighting and camera
grad school, SF Academy of Art University/Film and Video
https://www.RickWiseDP.com
https://www.linkedin.com/in/rwise
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com
Rick Wise
August 8, 2010 at 6:08 pm in reply to: New HMI – soft or fresnel

Thanks for bringing out attention to the Panaura 7. Looks like a very interesting location soft light. If you go for it, be sure to get the grid because controlling spill with soft boxes can be a hassle.

I like Todd’s 1200 fresnel lighting idea, combining key and backlight. You could probably also nurse a fill light with a piece of foamcore catching some of the bounced key as well. That way you have key, fill, and backlight, all from just one lighting unit. Note that properly placed, a soft key often needs little or no fill.

If you go with the Panaura you may find you have too much luminance in relation to your other lights. But I presume there’s a way to scrim down the Panaura. Otherwise, invest in a roll of ND3 gel (1 stop.)

Myself, I would be very, very, very tempted to buy the Panaura, maybe because I like to try out new approaches. For your purposes it looks like it could be terrific.

I couldn’t find anywhere to buy it or a price. Please post if you have that information.

Rick Wise
director of photography
San Francisco Bay Area
and part-time instructor lighting and camera
grad school, SF Academy of Art University/Film and Video
https://www.RickWiseDP.com
https://www.linkedin.com/in/rwise
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com
Rick Wise
August 6, 2010 at 5:57 pm in reply to: litepanels

Price will attract users to a new, unknown light, price combined with features. If you can get someone who’s an experienced DP or gaffer to give them a try gratis and write a report, you may get some testimonials to help sell your product. This is a tough, crowded market. There’s always room for a better light that does more. To my mind the light must be:
adjustable from 2800K to 6000K
have a very high CRI — Kino Flo bulbs have a CRI of 95. Anything below that has an ugly green spike that has to be gelled out
come in various sizes and intensities
be dimmable without a shift in color
be competitively priced
be built to last

Best wishes to you!

Rick Wise
director of photography
San Francisco Bay Area
and part-time instructor lighting and camera
grad school, SF Academy of Art University/Film and Video
https://www.RickWiseDP.com
https://www.linkedin.com/in/rwise
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com

Rick Wise

August 1, 2010 at 4:55 pm in reply to: Has anyone read American Cinematographer

I’ve been subscribing for over 40 years. Every time I think, hell, this isn’t worth the cost, along comes an article that rivets me.

A lot depends on what you put into it. You can read through every article and learn nothing. Or you can think about the implications to your own work and learn something.

The other part of the mag that is very useful is the advertising. Those ads are one way to keep at least partially up to date on new gear. Often I use them as a prompt to look up online for more information.

One warning: every article makes it sounds like the film being described is a cinematic miracle. Most of them are mediocre movies. You can still learn.

That’s it — it’s a learning tool. You probably can subscribe online and avoid the shipping charges. Not as much fun to read as in print, but a whole lot cheaper. Worth trying.

Rick Wise

July 31, 2010 at 11:42 pm in reply to: Crazy Lighting rig – toned down, worked well

Very cool, Todd.

Rick

Rick Wise

July 18, 2010 at 7:29 pm in reply to: cursor won’t set start point

Ooops, sorry. It was the computer itself, not Vegas. A reboot and all back to normal.

Rick Wise

July 16, 2010 at 9:04 pm in reply to: Need Advice Purchasing a Camera

You could also consider Sony’s Sony HXR-NX5U, or HVR-Z5u, both around $4,000. You may prefer the images you get with your first choice though all these cameras will produce similar results.

Rick Wise

July 14, 2010 at 7:14 pm in reply to: Image Stabilization

The Canon HF200 is no more, unless you can find it used. Replaced by the Canon HF300 (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/671648-REG/Canon_3536B001_VIXIA_HF200_Flash_Memory/BI/6544/KBID/7158). This camera is minuscule! Only a little over four inches long…. Relatively cheap — $458 on sale at the moment. Appears to have some manual controls. Looks cool for quick and easy.

Rick Wise

July 13, 2010 at 5:30 pm in reply to: Lighting for B-roll where you don’t have power

The short answer is, there are always creative ways to light, regardless of what powers the light — bounced, AC, DC. The considerable advantage of LED lights is that they are very light and consume very little power so that running them off batteries is a decent option.

Here’s a list of them that run ad/dc, from low to high: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=12248&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&N=4294551085+4289308679+4289308678/BI/6544/KBID/7158

No matter where the power comes from, the last place you want the light, except for a little eye-twinkle, is on or near the camera. That means you need at lest one other person to hold the light(s). Sometimes you can press one of your “handlers” into becoming a brief human light stand….

Rick Wise

July 12, 2010 at 8:50 pm in reply to: Lighting for dolly shot… is this crazy?

Todd, I love your rig. However, possibly you are over complicating things. There must be a lot of doorways along the hall. Light as well as people can come from doorways. There is probably some soft of overheads working — can you use them and balance them to the color temp of the doorways? As you know well, going in and out of light works great. A small kino on the dolly above or below the camera to add a base/fill, and you might be good. Design the walk so at the end the guy ends up in good lighting.

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