Richard Van den boogaard
Forum Replies Created
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True, I almost forgot – you do need to record proper sound in camera, if only for sync purposes. I too use a Rode Videomic, although the little plastics in which the mic hangs do tend to break easily. But then again, it’s not the most expensive mic out there…
Richard van den Boogaard
Freelance cameraman • Editor • YouTube specialist -
Probably depends on your card speed. I use 30Mbit/s cards only. It’s either that, or the card is ready for the bin…
Richard van den Boogaard
Freelance cameraman • Editor • YouTube specialist -
First of all, I would advice you get a Zoom H4N – a great (and very affordable) portable recording device that allows for recording of upto 4 channels, of which two mono combined XLR/Jack inputs.
The Zoom H4N also has two cross mics on the front which allows for recording of set noise – extremely important for your edit, as it gives you the feeling of ‘actually being there’, even if you mix it in at -20dB. Boats/planes/cars/factories/kids, whatever is relevant for the environment you’re shooting in, take a few quiet minutes to record set noise. Also, bear in mind to record at 16-bit 48kHz as that matches the format in camera on the 5D (not sure about the 7D).
When recording subject sound, it’s key to get the mic as close to the subject as possible. You can use a directional mic and a boom, but you’ll probably need an assistant to hold it for you (and prevend it from entering the frame). Alternatively, you can use a wireless lavalier (which you can try to hide inside a shirt). For wireless solutions, you can go for Sennheiser, although I prefer Sony’s much sturdier (and reliable?) UWP sets. If you have an interviewer holding a mic, use the most-used broadcast mic out there, the Electrovoice RE-50.
For monitoring of audio you can use most any headset – I often use the plugs from my iPod. Most important thing is to prevend audio from clipping, so do a set-up check first and regularly check the meters on the Zoom H4N while listening.
Just remember that 50% of your video production is actually audio…
Good luck. Hope this helps.
Richard van den Boogaard
Freelance cameraman • Editor • YouTube specialist -
I totally second this; go for option 1. Even if you use a Beachtek/Juice Link, you have to find some place to put your wireless receiver (unless, of course, you have a regular XLR cable connected). You could use the hotshoe for that… but I would rather have two audio sources (double system) than just one which I cannot monitor.
I usually have a wireless mic receiver tied to a lanyard around my neck and the Zoom H4N in my pocket (gotta use wide/comfortable pants when shooting) and a headphone attached to monitor the audio. With the camera on a monopod, this allows me to freely move around.
Syncing audio is in post is a bit of a pain. Not difficult if you’re used to reading waveforms, but time-consuming nonetheless. If I have an assignment with just vox-pops, I consider renting an EX-3 or sth.
Richard van den Boogaard
Freelance cameraman • Editor • YouTube specialist -
Hi Jared,
Depending on what output your client needs, you can indeed go for fullHD (1080p), but 720p (1280×720) often suffices. That gives you the benefit of having some leeway (30%) of digitally reframing your shots if you were not all that accurate upon shooting.
I have no experience with FCP, as I am on Adobe CS5 which is super with respect to DSLR support. No need for transcoding, even when applying extensive filters or color grading.
Good luck.
Richard van den Boogaard
Freelance cameraman • Editor • YouTube specialist -
I just read a post on Shane Hurlbut’s blog that addresses how CS5 handles DSLR footage, inside the comment section: https://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2010/09/17/when-a-small-move-makes-all-the-difference-kessler-cranes-cineslider/comment-page-1/#comment-4668
Apparently, you have to set your DSLR camera to Adobe RGB colour space…
Richard van den Boogaard
Freelance cameraman • Editor • YouTube specialist