[Richard Herd]

In the old days (two years ago), you’d have to store the tape on a shelf and the “data” on a hard drive–still two places. If you compare price, P2 archiving is cheaper.

I’ve been shooting the ag-hvx200 since July 2006. I used to just import the QT data and not store the MXF, but when Apple changed their final termination code none of my QT worked. Fortunately P2 Log Pro saved the day (again). But man! I wish I had saved my MXF. I do now, of course. And I dream of a day when I can edit in FCP with native MXF. It’s a pipe dream.

[Richard Herd]

I don’t see what you’re describing, sorry.

An old-school, in-camera technique can be achieved with modern equipment relatively easily. Here’s what you do: Put the focus on auto, hold the camera, as you move the camera backward (by walking or dollying), then zoom in with the button. The “trick” is to keep the composition about the same and to time your movements. After a few tries you’ll get it.

[Richard Herd]

No worries.

I have another idea. In your system, you have several known factors: namely your lights, and you know the circuit breaks at 15 or 20 amps. It’s relatively easy to measure the volts, and then do some math. The hard part is the actual formula. Anyway, I have an email into my cousin, a mechanical engineer who works with a brilliant electrical engineer. Keep your fingers crossed!

[Richard Herd]

I called my grandfather. He’s a retired electrician: Please see if this link works (hope it’s what you’re looking for). I searched Home Depot for “clamp meter.” https://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=clamp+meter&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

[Richard Herd]

It appears the name of the gadget you’re looking for is called an ammeter. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammeter

I did a quick search and they seem cheap, so that makes me skeptical it’s actually the correct gadget.

[Richard Herd]

Check this out: https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=1080

(It’ll cost more than sandwich.)

[Richard Herd]

It really depends the exact environment of where, what, and when you’re shooting. If you’re looking to add something to your basic kit, spend good money on a good polarizer. Which will serve you well for EXT. DAY.

Other than a polarizer, other filters are not necessary to capture a nicely exposed image. They can add aesthetics and tone, but if you’re starving, I suggest a sandwich–not a filter. 🙂

[Richard Herd]

Thanks Rick!

I guess he ought to wrap the china ball in CTB, though, for EXT. DAY.

PS I graduated AAU,SF in 2005 🙂

[Richard Herd]

For <$50, you can piece together a very decent lighting rig used in many big budget Hollywood movies: "the china ball." Round paper lantern from World Market: $7.99 500w photoflood from local store: $8.00 660w rated Leviton porcelain fixture from home depot: $3.27 Switch: $0.65 Pwrtool cord: $5.97 1-7/8" Handy box: $0.94 Connector: $0.29 Foam core "posterboard": $1.50 This says nothing of where to place it or how to control it, but with DV it's very cheap and easy to experiment, assuming there's time to test the camera. Also DV presents a funky little problem: the minimum luminance value. According to the manual (which I just downloaded), your camera has a minimum illumination of 1 lux. I find that very hard to believe. I'm sure there's fine print I missing. Here's a simple experiment to try: Using manual modes, video a subject--sitting in a chair, nice wide shot a few feet away so the light only hits one side of their face, half the face is lit, the other half is dark. Then move the light nearer the subject, then move the light five feet away. Then five more feet. Then five more feet, etc. Move it all around. Don't block the light or cast shadows on your subject. Record this, and bring the footage into your editing suite to try and find some kind of sweet spot. I surmise you'll find that "the more light on the subject, the better the image looks and is easier to manipulate/time in editing." Seems obvious, but I'll say it anyway: If it a subject isn't lit, then the camera cannot store the color data.

[Richard Herd]

A piece of green construction paper over the monitor makes it easy to key out.