[Richard Crowley]

PLEASE DO NOT USE ALL CAPITAL LETTERS!!
IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO READ.
IT MAKES IT SEEM LIKE YOU ARE SHOUTING AT US!!

Did you use a simple Cat5 cable between your computer and the ATEM, or did you plug the computer or the ATEM into the wall (the computer network in the studio).

Your symptoms sound like you plugged your computer into a network at the studio and it uses DHCP which automatically reconfigures your network. We will need much better details about exactly how you are doing things if you hope for any practical help from us.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DHCP
https://gospelliving.blogspot.com/2008/10/quick-reminder-on-netiquette-all-caps.html

[Richard Crowley]

Please explain your question.
Do you have the instructions?
Do you understand the published instructions?
Do you know how to use your Macbook Pro?

(No need to SHOUT!)

[Richard Crowley]

Brilliant! Thanks, Eric.

And for wires (not really appropriate for mic heads, except very small ones) there are these things:

https://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/ALG-24/MINI-CLIP/1.html

At 10 cents each, practically an expendable.

[Richard Crowley]

Another possibility is to try creating another track with the same signal in the opposite polarity. Line it up with the echo and try mixing enough in to cancel the echo signal. It may be more effective than more generic kinds of noise reduction.

The opposite-phase cancellation is not really available in most kinds of audio repair, but this is one exceptional case where it may be of some value.

Note that you may have to “slip” your echo track to keep it in sync along the way as print-thru varies from the beginning to the end of the tape.

[Richard Crowley]

Yes you are supposed to be able to transfer the license. You can also buy a 2-computer license for not much more than single license.

I had exactly the same problem with my AJA KiPro drives until I tried connecting them directly via SATA (a method NOT endorsed by AJA). Now I get quite reasonable transfer times out of them.

[Richard Crowley]

This looks like a remarkable deal. Solid mechanical design, and a noise-cancelling mic with a street price < $150

Headsets Inc. DRE-1001 (available in black or white)
https://www.headsetsinc.com/Headsets.html

I don’t have any hands-on experience with this product, but it looks good enough on the website that I may order one myself just to try it out.

[Richard Crowley]

Hi, Joe

What kind of budget? There are good headsets that run $300-500.

What do you mean by “sound quality”?

• Do you mean ISOLATION from ambient noise?
• Or do you mean VOLUME levels?
• Or do you mean INTELLIGIBILITY?

Do you mean what the ops are HEARING or do you mean understanding what the ops are SAYING?

There may be different solutions for different problems (or combinations of problems).

My best headsets were a couple of military-surplus units with great isolation, sensitivity, and noise-cancelling mics.

Indeed, I just Googled for “aircraft headsets” and found some likely candidates for significantly lower prices than the ones intended for the production intercom market. They would probably require changing out the connectors since the BMD gear uses those twinky 3.5mm consumer jacks. Or it would be easy enough to make some adapters to use more industry-standard headset connectors.

What are you using for fiber cable? How is it holding up in portable use? How delicate is it for setup and strike?

[Richard Crowley]

The preferred solution would be to use “ENG style” wireless receivers which are typically around the size of the belt-pack transmitters. But if you want to use that Shure dual receiver for portable use, here is what I would do:

Get two of these battery clips from Radio Shack:
https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062253
each holds four AA cells (each adds up to 6V).

I would get a power connector also from Radio Shack that fits your receiver. You will have to use their sample plugs to select the correct one for your gear.

I would wire the battery packs in series (to produce 12V) and connect that plug so it powers the receiver.

Note that you can get a cable that plugs into the power plug if you don’t want to solder directly to the power plug. https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807941

I would use self-stick velcro strips to fasten the battery packs onto the receiver. That makes it into a portable unit (although a bit of a kludge).

[Richard Crowley]

We don’t know what other equipment you are using? Are you using other professional equipment that operates on external 12V battery? You can get/make a simple cable to go from your 12V source to the receiver.

If you don’t already have a 12V source, you could use anything that provides 12-15V. Like a car or motorcycle battery, or a couple of battery holders from Radio Shack or a pair of “lantern batteries”. We don’t know enough about your situation to make any more specific recommendations. Where are you shooting that has a couch and a coffee table but not power?

[Richard Crowley]

The Shure PG88 Dual Wireless Receiver runs on “12-18V DC”. That means you can operate it from battery power. No power mains AC required. Dunno why you would want to fool around with inferior substitutes when you have a perfectly good pair of wireless clip-on lavs? Doesn’t make any sense to me. Unless there is some other factor not disclosed here?