Peter James
Forum Replies Created
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thx for the tips – definitely more efficient.
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Yeah that makes sense now.
[Craig Seeman] “Didn’t you get suspicious when you weren’t seeing a shutter speed on the LCD?
That would have been my first question. How come I change the shutter speed and don’t see it displayed.”What threw me off was that I was seeing the number change in the menu as I selected different speeds, and just assumed that it wasn’t shown once you exit the menu (and that “Shutter: Off” referred to something else entirely).
Appreciate the help – these forums are a great resource.
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Yeah, it actually doesn’t say “Auto-Shutter” on the LCD, but rather says “Shutter: Off”. Being new to the camera, I didn’t realize “off” meant “auto” and that “off” would change to “1/250” etc when the Shutter switch was enabled.
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David & Craig,
Thanks for the replies. I just figured it out – low and behold, there’s a SHUTTER switch just below the lens on the front of the camera body that overrides the Shutter settings in the camera menu. When it’s set to “OFF”, you’re stuck in Auto-Shutter mode. Setting it to “ON” engages manual shutter speed! Problem solved – crisp, super realistic feeling movement. Just need to have enough light to compensate for the fast shutter speed of course.
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hey guys,
here is the workflow that worked for me, which is basically what Stephen recommended + the A.I.C.:
1. Convert to CBR using Quicktime Pro. Open each clip in Quicktime, do an Export to Quicktime Movie with the Codec as Apple Intermediate Codec (720p60 preset), at Current Frame Size (1280×720).
2. Open clips in Cinema Tools and Conform to 23.98fps.
3. Open 1080p24 timeline in FCP and drop the conformed clips into the timeline. (Click “No” for “do you want to auto change settings”). Then render and export one by one. The resulting exported clips will be conformed to 23.98fps, will have smooth slow motion, and will be 1080 so they’ll edit easily in a native 1080p24 timeline.
hope that works for ya.