[Norman Willis]

Hi Robert.

I archive both original footage and converted .avi to duplicate external hdd’s. It’s so cheap nowadays!

I hope that helps!

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/400806-REG/Rode__NTG_2_Battery_or_Phantom.html

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

>>I think this will work for me as a semi-intermediary, since it’s gonna be a while before I start doing anything in true HD–I still love working with this cheapy $50 digicam I got at walmart–

Hey, if it works for you, that’s great. That’s the true test 🙂

And if you’re continuing to work in SD, then yeah, a modern laptop will probably cut through it like a knife through butter.

I would be very interested to know how you like your Asus. They get great reviews, and I am looking at that brand for whenever I replace.

Best.

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

Dear Carlton,

This may not be the answer you are looking for, but I think you may find that most pros on this forum don’t use laptops for HD editing, primarily due to heat issues. The secondary reason is that for HD, you want twin hard drives in RAID 0 for D:\. You can do that via external interface (such as eSata, or maybe USB 3.0), but other than that it is just not fast enough.

If you do specifically need a laptop for HD editing (due to portability or whatever other issue), the Asus is probably one fo the best. Lenovo would be another. I would look for a metal case (not injection molded plastic), for heat dissipation, and USB 3.0 coupled with a G-Raid Mini.

If you want to do somethings short, you might get away with it. But if you want to do anything heavy, or graphics intensive, it might generate too much heat.

I know some guys use laptops, but I would not advise it, unless you absolutely cannot avoid it.

I hope that helps.

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

Hi Jake.

>> I have never found a good conversion for my video so I just edit the footage as is.

Have you tried Cineform NeoScene?
https://www.cineform.com/neoscene/

Epic?
https://dvfilm.com/epic/index.htm

I have not tried Epic, but it is supposed to be specifically designed for realtime DSLR H.264 .mov in Vegas 9.0d Pro.

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

It seems like a really nice microphone. I will definitely keep in in mind. Thanks!

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

Hi Niloy.

Is your machine a laptop, or a desktop?

If it is a desktop, you will have a lot easier time if you upgrade to a quad core processor.

Either way (laptop or desktop) you will have a lot easier time with 4GB RAM. And considering how cheap RAM is nowadays, I would definitely recommend it 🙂

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

Hey Bob.

>>still and video was some of the best in 20 years in photography & video (using a RODE Video Stereo Mike for stereo sound).

How do you like that Rode Videomic?

And what made your decision to select the Rode Videomic?

Would you happen to know how it might compare to a Rode NTG-2?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/481528-REG/Rode__NTG_2_Condenser_Shotgun_Microphone.html

Thanks much.

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

Just NeoScene, I think. But to be sure, please contact Jake Segraves, the rep for Cineform.
jake . segraves @ gmail . com

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org

[Norman Willis]

Jon,

I’m glad to hear everything is working out for you. The NeoScene trial was an excellent idea 🙂

Without seeing the stage I can’t really tell you what settings you need. However, if it was me, and the stage was well lit, I would probably just go with the normal settings. The display is fairly true to the picture it takes, so if you like what you see, then you will probably like what you get. If it is really dark on screen you can use one of the other settings (like night); but I would try standard first. If it is only a little dark you can easily brighten it up in post. It is when it is overexposed (i.e., the colors are all bleached out) that you cannot recover the information later.

What kind of lighting are they using? Tungsten? Fluorescent? Halogen? The color temperature will change, depending on which kind of lighting they are using, so I would think the most important thing would be just to manually set your white balance. It is easy. Just fill your screen with something that is pure white (or that you want to define as being white 🙂 and press your white balance. The manual shows how to set manual white balance. Then the rest of the colors should turn out nicely. If you don’t like what you see on the screen, try something else.

Please let me know how it goes.

Norman Willis
http://www.nazareneisrael.org