Norman Pogson
Forum Replies Created
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I was shooting 30fps, it happened again yesterday. I swapped the card for an Extreme II and it worked OK with no buffer over run.
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I did have issues with a Kingston pro x1333 card, my Canon 7D went into buffer over run and closed the camera down, it did this three times in a row, only allowing 3 seconds of shooting and then closing down the camera. The card was 50% full, so now I’m looking towards Sandisk Extreme.
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Depends on what your subject matter is, I have the canon 50mm f1.4 and a Nikkor 24mm f2.8 this covers a lot of what I need to do.
I understand the thinking that the 35mm is an equivalent to a 50mm on a full frame 35mm camera, but most of the time I can step backwards with a 50mm and it also becomes a nice portrait lens as well. There is also quite a price difference between the two lenses.
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Philip Bloom is working on a Lucas film “Redtails” and are using this modified 7D hotrod, https://philipbloom.net/2010/05/12/redtails/
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There is a difference between still photography and video, which might seem obvious, but I think a lot of still shooters get a HDSLR with video and try and take their existing knowledge of photography and apply it to video.
Where in still photography you can go aperture priority 90% of the time, video needs a different approach, even though you are using the same camera.
Sharpness and noise have different standards from still to video, sharpness in still photography is hard to get when viewing at 100%, and the cost of lenses is huge to get that level of sharpness. Video on the other hand has a lower level of sharpness because of how the image is used.
As the other posters have said, in video go manual, control everything including iso, shutter is fixed to the frame rate, so at 60 fps your shutter speed should be 120th, take a still photo with the settings you have chosen and see what the histogram shows and alter your aperture to push the histogram graph to the right, making sure the top of the graph does not go off the chart.
Shoot scenes that have an even exposure, avoid scenes with deep shadows and bright highlights (high contrast). Set your iso to 100 in bright sunshine and when you have time search for Canon custom menu settings for information about setting up your camera.
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I shoot food and yet I don’t own a macro lens, there are two styles of food imagery, shallow depth of field and large dof, it’s often important to show the environment the food is in, such as serving dishes etc.
I guess I’m old school and shoot everything manual and light my shots, so I use a 70-200 and 50mm amongst others. I also use extension tubes to reduce the minimum focal distance, I have a 3 ring set from Kenko and use them with all my lenses for close ups and still life shots.
Rather than zooming I prefer to use a slider or dolly to give either a fly by or zoom in style of shot.
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35mm is a good focal length for interviews on the crop sized senor x1.6 I like the Canon 50mm f1.4 I use it a lot. You can get a Nikon 24mm fairly cheap, a 200mm will give a nice compressed look and allow for candid shots at a wedding.
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The Nikon lenses I have are all primes and constant aperture, so give good shallow depth of field if required. I use a Cokin filter holder and have a couple of different adapter rings for them, most of my Nikon lenses happen to have a filter size of 52mm which is small by today’s standard.
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I use older Nikon prime lenses with an adapter I get from Ebay for $10.00 I use a 24mm Nikkor f2.8 I also have the Canon 50mm f1.4 which is a great everyday lens and good for shallow depth of field.
I have heard a lot of shooters checking out the Indieslider people for low cost shoulder mounts and sliders. A slider would be good, here is the website https://www.indisystem.com/products/indirails_pro_dslr_sm
You will need a polarizing filter and neutral density filters, in order to open up the lens aperture, there is the Fader ND from Ebay. I have started reusing my Cokin filters which I have 4x and 8x ND filters etc.
If you are into time lapse, then an Ebay intervalometer would be useful for $40.
I second the tripod and if you are running and gunning then a bean bag and a Manfrotto super clamp and ball head might be useful.
The Tokina 11-16 is on my shopping list, which gives a great wide angle.