Neil Patience
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Neil Patience
November 28, 2012 at 8:22 pm in reply to: It’s my computer good enough for edit 1080p from Canon XA10 HD with Avid Media Encoder 6?Avid qualifies a series of PCs and Macs that will work with Media Composer. Whilst your machine would not be “officially” supported by Avid the basic spec seems like you should be OK. You might find it useful to go to the Avid site here https://avid.force.com/pkb/articles/en_US/Compatibility/en422411 where you can download a list of the qualified machines. It lists OS, CPU, GPU ram requirements etc. At least that will give you a good understanding of the type of spec you need.
I have run Avid quite happily on “unsupported” machines in the past but they have always been very close to the spec of one of the qualified PCs.
I would say that you need to make sure your media storage drives are quick enough. 7200 RPM is good but a single drive may struggle a little with multiple streams of HD media. So that is perhaps one area where you need to check. I would also try to use a qualified GPU as that can be the cause of some issues otherwise.Other than that all you can do is give it a try and see.
best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
I am making 2 assumptions, the first is that you need a 30 frame 1920×1080 HD master and that you are working on FCP7.
So based on that then :-
[Eddie Largo] “4800 x 2700 x 72dpi for the ‘moves’, for import into FCP.”
I would not exceed 4000 pixels in any direction or you risk the annoying “out of memory” error. If you stick to a max of 3500 pixels in any direction you should be safe.
[Rafael Amador] “so try to keep the still as smaller as possible. Just big enough to make the “moves” you want.”
This is good advice, rather than having any source still at exactly the right size give yourself a little flexibility to be able to move on anything.
Then on the ones that definately require much larger moves go for the 3500 max in any direction and you will have the most flexibility.
[Rafael Amador] ”
I would recommend you to use PNG instead of TIFF. I don’t know why but TIFF has given some times more problems. Probably because the many options on exporting.”PNG is good for all the general pictures, which I assume will be the majority, Tiffs are useful if you have a text graphic overlay. Just make the tiff on a transparent background and check preserve trsnsparencey on the export options side.
best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
No worries maybe its my hormones or something – you never can tell.
I actually did this once for a digital signage clip where there were 3 x 30 sec HD films stacked up.
I would say to Tim don’t try to edit in a timeline of that size just make 3 self contained 1920 x 1080 movies and re-import so you have just 3 clips.
Obviously keeping an eye on any sync points where the 3 films need to be aligned.
I think anything else may possibly cause crying and gnashing of teeth, or maybe thats just me 🙂
best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
Oh OK I have output hundreds of sequences across just about every tape format using edit to take with deck control.
If Sam is using firewire then it must be a DV/HDV based codec so why would this not work using a firewire connection ? Am I missing something ? Perhaps I am missing the point apologies for that.best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
Hi Raphael
I had a quick go at this in FCP7 and created a custom sequence of 1920 x 3040, which is 3 HD files stacked on top of each other.
I only used 30 secs of bars but it happily made the file. I had to fiddle with the distort to get it right but other than that seemed fine.
To be fair I have never dont this in anger but a “quick and dirty” test suggest it will be fine. Hopefully I have managed to upload a still that shows a Quicktime inspector.
My understanding was that FCPX can indeed support up to 4K but only using standard frame sizes. Where FCP7 supports “odd” frame sizes not related to any video format.
Maybe my quick test is not a real example and it would all be a nightmare in real lifeI left a little space between the files so you could see I was not cheating 🙂
best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
Print to video is really only intended to be used where there is no ability to output the sequence in a controlled way. So if you are using firewire then the best option is edit to tape.
Try setting up the edit to tape option via firewire and you should be in much better shape.
best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
FCP 7 can create any custom frame sizes as log as its below 4K so you can easily do that in there, I do not believe you can to that in FCPX
best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
OK so you need to standardise the codec. ProRes 4444 is total overkill for DSLR footage. Most people use either LT or 422. So just pick one of those for both and you should be just fine.
best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
You only need ProRes LT for DSLR footage, HQ and 4444 are not needed, you wont gain any quality and just create huge files.
What did you transcode your H264 footage to ? If it was ProRes 422 which I think may be default then use that.
Are you using FCP 7 or FCP X ?best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv -
https://library.creativecow.net/ross_shane/tapeless-workflow_fcp-7/1
Thats going to show you the correct workflow for DSLR footage.
https://forums.creativecow.net/readpost/8/1093961
This post looks like it will help you with the frame rate problem
Good luck !
best wishes
Neil
http://www.patience.tv
