[Mark Suszko]

Seems to me like you need to shop around for the CDN that can handle your security and capacity issues for cheap. Ah, the magic triangle strikes again!

Does Amazon or Akamai offer anything you could use?

[Mark Suszko]

I was going to suggest the same thing as Jeff K. did. Duplicate/stack the clip, gaussian blur one layer, adjust opacity and blend mode to taste. I’d add a little different color correction to the new layer as well, and this is totally subjective, you do it to your own taste, but play with the exposure settings in the color corrector there. I think it does give something like the look of a ProMist.

[Mark Suszko]

How fast/easy can I find what I need, and can I afford it?

[Mark Suszko]

It would be Nike’s style to make a few of those practical, so they could also leverage location stills of that into more news coverage. And projection mapping tech makes most of it possible. But other than that possibility, there’s no real reason to do it practically. And that’s also more costly.

[Mark Suszko]

I use Sketch-up for this. I think they make a version now that’s customized for the film-maker, but I make do with the free basic online version.

[Mark Suszko]

I’m assuming you mean you’re lighting one wall in that room, not the entire room. I get very good base lighting on my green/blue screens with a couple of big Lowel Rifa softlights. At home, I get the same thing with 20-dollar LightDow softlights equipped with BonLux “corncob” LED bulbs. (on Amazon)

If you need to avoid stands, and keep the room clear as possible, my favorite option for those is a Matthews auto-pole, basically an industrial version of the expanding shower curtain rod, but meant for hanging lights from.

But Todd’s fluorescent troughs will also work for this. When you light a chromakey set with just two sources, they need to be super-soft and aimed to overlap, or you’ll get hotspots on the sides and a darker spot in the center. That’s where his third fixture, hanging from above, helps to fill-in the center. The auto-pole could handle hanging one of his DIY fixtures just fine.

Use your camera’s zebra bars and manual iris to explore and confirm that the coverage is as even as you can get it. You don’t need it super-bright, or even super-saturated. You mostly need it *even*, and wrinkle-free as possible… and I like the peaks on the chroma screen at around 80 IRE units so the talent can go brighter than that on highlights and not be blown-out.

[Mark Suszko]

Preach it, brother Bob. I’ve seen first-hand examples of very gifted people who have natural talent, and squandered it, wasted it…. and I’ve seen more “average” people who got good by just sticking it out and putting in the time until they learned to have the “eye” for the work and became good. I think the big difference then becomes, how these two each react when they come up against a challenging task.

[Mark Suszko]

If you need it quiet and a Honda with a sound-suppressor isn’t available or in the budget, then I’d suggest some deep-cycle marine batteries and an inverter if you need it to be AC, but modern cameras, laptops, and LED-based lights will run a long time on them on straight DC, long as they have a voltage regulator or you can run the devices independently on dedicated lithium battery packs.

The current Anton Baur’s we run our cameras with give about 6-7 hours of P2 run time.

I think I also just discovered a new niche market to tell Elon Musk about. 🙂

[Mark Suszko]

Not a doc, but “Lucy” has a bit of this.

[Mark Suszko]

I have an idea fora work-around.

If you right-click on a running YouTube video, you have options like;”copy this URL”, which makes it easier to drop that into, say, a Facebook comment or whatever.

Another one of those right-click options is something like: “Copy URL at this point in the playback”. Using this, if you were going to make a video comment in Facebook, for example, your clip would play from a specific spot instead of making the viewer just watch the entire clip, just to get to the interesting/relevant bit near the end, or asking them to scroll to a time index manually.

See where I’m going?

On the YouTube page for your recital is a section for Information about the video. You can copy/paste any number of these “cued-up urls into that area as a crude playlist and, being HTML links, they *should* (I’m guessing) function similarly to the basic chapter menus of a rudimentary DVD menu.

Or you can list the time indexes for all the start-points of the various acts on the recital in that spot as well, for people to manually scroll to. But getting there from a single click is neater, I think:-)

Another way to go is to make a specific YouTube channel, just for this recital… make a master clip of the entire recital, then upload the chapters separately and make a channel playlist of each individual clip. Now it works even more like a DVD menu… but that’s more work for you. It does though have advantages, like control of being fully private, or just unlisted-private, etc. to somewhat restrict access. And you can work on/change individual pieces without losing the whole thing.