[Joseph Magrini]

I don’t know if you ever received a response to your post.
I don’t own that particular Sony deck, and cannot speak directly to how it functions.
Neither do I work with Final Cut Express. I am a Final Cut Pro user.

However, I have long been interested in the WV-DR7 and while recently researching the device, came across an online posting with these instructions for FCP users:

In order to Capture from an S-VHS tape:
1) Turn on the deck and press the S-VHS button on the front panel. It should be lit.
2) The VHS dub button must be selected. This is the button on the top of the panel with an
arrow pointing left. A MiniDV tape must be in the deck in order for this to work. As
long as you follow these instructions carefully, the MiniDV tape will be unaffected.
3) When you go to capture window in Final Cut Pro, you must select “capture now” Also very important, Final Cut Pro audio/video settings must be on “non-controllable device”.
The is only controllable from the computer when it is in MiniDV mode.
4) Start playing the tape before the point you want to capture. Just before you want to capture the clip you must click on the NOW button in Final Cut Pro. After you stop
capturing, manually go to the next clip that you want to capture and repeat.

Perhaps you’ve already seen these suggestions. If not, maybe they will work for you.

[Joseph Magrini]

Sorry it has taken me so long to reply. I had to race out of town on a non-video project., but thank you for your response. I’m hopeful that an upgrade will rid me of this anomaly, as well. Although, I am a bit surprised that there aren’t other 5.0 users who might be experiencing the same thing. I’ve not found a single write up (or forum question) related to my problem . . . but an upgrade is obviously in order to try and straighten this out.

As far as your questions are concerned:

First, at this point in time, I’m not a very good person to ask about editing HDV with FCP on a G4. I have only acquired about seven hours of material on the XH-A1, and I have nearly stopped my capture process until I rectify this video shimmy problem.

Still, I have a few thoughts about HDV and the G4. I have been a DV/DVCAM user and FCP editor for a number of years (an Avid editor before that) and I came to truly love the FCP interface, and its ease and elegance when working with DV.

My limited experience with HDV has me somewhat upset. The cool thing about my G4 and DV and FCP was how perfectly the three seemed to interact. I had very few system crashes. My image quality was great. Everything seemed to integrate nicely.

When working with HDV, I no longer feel that my Mac is adequate for the task. Instead, I feel like I need some very high-end workstation in order to obtain the same level of efficiency and reliability that I had with DV.

Yes, HDV is processor intensive. Rendering takes a long time, and it needs to be done for nearly everything. I personally did not notice an image quality loss when utilizing the Apple Intermediate Codec, but I am working out of my home at the moment, without a truly professional method of monitoring.

I’m still tempted to use AIC, but the file sizes were so remarkably large . . I think about 35GB per hour. I began to steer clear of that, when I started contemplating how hard drive intensive that must be. After all, I rarely hear of processor failures, but I frequently hear horror stories of hard drive failures. Just how risky is it to make such huge demands of the hard drive, where all my data is stored?

It’s very confusing, plus, I don’t feel I have ever obtained a great answer to the “which is better to use question.” In addition, Apple’s introduction of the new ProRes 422 intermediate codec makes me think that working in an intermediate codec might be the way it should go, but AIC wasn’t quite up to par.

BTW: I really appreciate the link you sent me. Several months ago, just after buying the Canon, I was searching out a lot of info related to “when to convert.” I guess this article wasn’t available yet, but it is really good, so thanks. I’ll keep it and review it again.

Finally, I simply have not done enough output yet — other than tests — to offer you a description of workflow. I really have yet to cross that bridge. I did output a small amount of HDV material to standard def DVD, without the use of compressor, simply by dragging my HDV project onto a standard DV timeline, and then examining the results . . . . which I found a bit less than impressive, to be truthful. However, it was interesting that when outputting, my shimmy problem disappears, so something happens at some point in either the standard conversion, or in the conforming that rids the image of shake.

As far as the XH-A1 is concerned. I find it both remarkable and occasionally disappointing . . . again, bearing in mind my limited shooting with it.

I come from a full-sized camcorder background, and this is my first experience with a handheld — I’ve used XL1’s before, but they’re a bit more shoulder-mounted, though not truly — so, I’m getting used to the different feel, but beginning to like it. I typically shoot from sticks, anyway.

The resolution of the XH-A1 is remarkable, particularly in brightly lit areas. I notice a bit more chroma noise in dimly lit scenes than I care for, however. The color reproduction is disappointing at the default settings, but everyone tells me that the customized settings that are readily available on-line really juice it up . . . I’ve not done that yet, as I had begun this project with flat settings, and to be honest, once I witnessed the shimmy problem, I began to lose heart for the project and my camera.

The LCD viewfinder is too small, but very usable. It’s amazingly crisp, but you always wish it were just a bit larger. The standard viewfinder is simply too consumer. I wonder if anyone is making a more comfortable eye cup for it, yet. Although I’m not sure if the one it has is removable.

Low light performance is somewhat lacking, but the image does survive a step-up to 9dB gain rather nicely.

Perhaps the coolest feature is the “preset-able” zoom. Choose a focal length. Press a button and then widen out to a long shot. Hit the same button again, and the lens zooms to EXACTLY your preset spot. The zoom will occur at any of 18 preset speeds. It’s almost like having someone pull focus for you, but only the zoom, instead. That said, the same feature does exist for focus, but it seems to me that there may be only one focus speed, and that is too fast to act like a smooth focus pull.

Although it is usable, I do wish the variable speed zoom rocker were slightly larger. As is, it is quite difficult to hold steady for a really slow zoom. However, it can be set to a constant slow zoom speed, and it truly is quite nice. I suppose I will get used to that.

Although others have claimed otherwise, I think the autofocus is quite good. I don’t tend to shoot with it, but I have found myself getting more of an assist from it on occasion than I should ever admit.

Annoyances: The headphone jack is under a rubber cover, along with a lot of connection that I’d rather not routinely expose . . . just plain stupid.

The mic block does not allow for one audio channel to be set at Line Level while the other is set to MIC LEVEL. Perhaps a minor annoyance, if a transformer is plugged in to pad the incoming line signal . . . haven’t tried it yet.

Zebras and Peaking cannot be seen in the viewfinder at the same time.

The lack of an S-VHS input/output is a bit bothersome.

I would truly love to have an HDMI output, and that is what interested me most in the Sony V1U, however, when I learned about just how beefy a system I would have to have to work with uncompressed video, I pretty much wrote this off.. It would still be helpful, I’m sure, for monitoring.

As I mentioned, I was interested in Sony’s V1U, because I think CMOS chips will become more and more commonplace, but I was fearful of the 1/4 inch chips. Also, back when I was shopping, there was some concern with the quality of the 24P feature . . . which I was most interested in.

Given I only have FCP 5.0, I have not yet had the chance to “play” with the Canon’s 24F, but I understand it might have a better look than Sony’s 24P.

Okay, I’m beginning to babble. I’m sorry if I’ve left you only with a bunch of “I’m not sures,” but that’s where I stand right now.

I’d be happy to answer any specific questions if I am able to. Right now, although I’ve been a video producer form many years, I feel quite a bit like a novice. I do appreciate your suggestion, however. Very best wishes as you try to get “off the fence.”

Thanks,

Joe

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Forum: Canon camcorders
User Name: Miodrag Ristic
Post Subject: Re: HDV capture anomaly with XH-A1 and FCP

————————————————–

JoePM,

I believe your problem will be solved with upgrade, Canon cameras have always
required special treatment in their relationship with FCP (firewire, external hard drives. etc.).

What I’d like to ask you is your experience with editing HDV considering you are only
on G4.
I’ve read many threads on Cow where people are discounting editing in native HDV as
that was very “processor intensive bacause of long GOP structure”.
In the same time, I know that “official” stand is actualy to stay in HDV, one of those is this one:

https://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/when_to_stay_native.html

I’m currently sitting on the fence (eyeing XH A1 for some time now) regarding HDV.
I wonder what is your experience with HDV, what is your workflow further from FCP,
exporting to compressor, to MPEG 2 for DVD or…
Secondly, are you happy with XH A1, any suggestions?

I’d appreciate any thougts you can share along these lines, thanks.

Mio

[Joseph Magrini]

Man, I was hoping you were going to say that you never clean the heads on your camcorders, and then we could all shout “that’s the problem.”

Still, I feel like something strange might be going on. I don’t want it to sound like I’m trying to lay the blame at your feet, but I must ask if those five good tapes shot after head cleaning were repeat-use tapes?

Also, I don’t know what the rules are here about posting quotes from other sites (I suspect it’s frowned upon) but solely in the interest of helping, here are three comments from other miniDV users that might apply:

“Also, in case you weren’t aware, it’s considered bad practice to switch brands of tape. So, whatever brand your first tape is, try to stick with it. There are differences in the tape formulations between various manufacturers that when mixed, can gum up the heads.”

and also . . .

“Choose one brand and stick with it. Clean between brands if you must switch back & forth.”

and finally . . .

“Brian from Zotz Digital told me they only sell and recommend the Panasonic DV tapes since it’s the only brand that does not use oil based lubricant. I couldn’t say why this is better though, I’m fairly new to the DV world.”

Personally, I am not that careful about switching between tape brands, and I’ve not had routine clogging problems, but this situation seems to be commented on so often on-line that I assume it is real.

Do you think it is possible that you are experiencing this “change of tape brand” problem, or do you stick with only one brand?

Finally, your comment about shooting at the container yard has been weighing on me. Windy conditions alone should not adversely affect the XL1, but if a large amount of dust was in the air, you might be in need of sooner-than-average head cleaning.

Of more concern to me is the possibility that the camera might have been exposed to a lot of saltwater mist. Was it at this seaside location that one or more of your five good tapes were shot before the striping problem reappeared?

I’ve known of camcorders that were used to routinely tape swimming events at chlorinated pools that wound up with head drums that were scarred and pitted and eventually the associated heads failed. Apparently the chlorine in the air around the pool was corrosive enough to damage smooth internal parts.

Of course, this was a freshwater swimming pool, so the circumstances aren’t identical, but I suppose it would not have been impossible for saltwater mist to have damaged the surfaces of the drum and head. Still, I find this unlikely.

You might visually inspect the head drum of your XL1 to see if the drum surface is still mirror-like. If not, you might actually be looking at something greater than a cleaning problem.

Do you mind my asking if you’ve been given an estimate as to the cost of replacing the entire recorder section? I’m just curious. I still hope it doesn’t come to that.

Good Luck!

Joe

[Joseph Magrini]

Thank you Don –

I had actually considered that possibility, but I assumed I couldn’t be the only person who was trying to capture from an XH-A1 with this hardware/software configuration.

When I brought my camera and a few tapes over to another facility to test them on a different Mac, it was with the hope that they were running 5.1, but no such luck.

I’ll see if I can do as you suggest, and I’ll let you know of the results. Until then, I’m with you, I have never seen this type of image malady before. I wish I could show it to you. I don’t think you would believe your eyes.

Thanks again,
Joe

[Joseph Magrini]

I completely understand your fears about not wanting a failure to occur during the recording of an event. Few things in this line of work are more upsetting than that.

Still, a replacement of the recording unit seems premature to me unless the head cleaning possibility has been fully investigated. If it has been, then you are probably correct to want to change the recording unit in an effort to obtain confidence.

I’m not quite clear as to whether or not you ever cleaned the heads after the first occurrence of this missing field anomaly. If you didn’t, it is still possible for the unit to “correct” itself the next time the camcorder is used, either for playback or recording.

As you may already know, head clogs usually occur when oxide scrapes off of a tape and lodges against one or more of the heads in the spinning head drum assembly. Sometimes such clogs remain trapped where they are as long as a tape is pressed against the drum. Eject the tape, and sometimes the offending particles of oxide fall away from the head drum, and the next recording will be okay.

Sometimes, loose tape debris will remain within the tape transport area, and re-lodge against ahead and “bingo” you’ve got another messed-up recording.

Typically, if I see this type of problem occur and then reoccur, I will first look at my procedures to see if I am using a particular tape just prior to the incidences of failure. For example, are you using your camcorder to capture from some old, heavily used, miniDV tape that might be decomposing and dropping off debris?

Then, are you shooting again, possibly even with new tape and experiencing this “missing field” problem, because the older tape left dirt behind. You might have an offending tape that is getting passed through your camera that needs to be retired.

Again, if you have never cleaned the heads after these bad recordings first appeared, then my opinion would be that you would be jumping the gun to have some service center simply replace the recording assembly.

Also, have you been recording (prior to, or during these failure events) under extreme dust conditions? For example, have you been shooting around saw dust, or during high-wind dust storms. If so, these too can certainly lend themselves to these sorts of failures, and head cleaning is again, step number one.

Finally, there is one thing that leads me away from my own head clog theory, a bit. That is the fact, that I believe the XL1 incorporated a feature that would allow it to put up a display in the viewfinder, instructing you that a head cleaning was needed. “Heads dirty, use cleaning cassette.”

This message has been notoriously unreliable, however, as it has often appeared on brand new cameras.

Clyde, if you google the following: “Heads Dirty, Use Cleaning Cassette” XL1

you will find several posts by people who describe similar “striping” issues to what you are having. See what they have to say.

Although there is a lot of disagreement, I think most pros recommend head cleaning at around every 50 hours use, unless shooting in extreme dust conditions which naturally requires more frequent cleaning.

So bottom line, are you cleaning the heads?

[Joseph Magrini]

Hello Clyde –

Although this could be a serious problem, this also looks like it could be a simple instance of head clogging.

It looks to me as though one read/write head is not able to write to tape.

I don’t recall if the XL1 incorporates a “flying” erase head just before the write head, but if it does, it would appear as though this head is clogged as well. That could account for the previously recorded material still being visible between the newly scanned video (your example #2).

In my past video life, I would never use video head cleaning tapes to clean S-VHS, U-Matic, or Beta decks, however, since the introduction of miniDV, I’ve been known to use them on occasion – particularly in the XL1. The head assemblies in those things appear to be so delicate, I’m a bit reluctant to clean them myself — although I have several times with no problem.

Do you have a head cleaning tape? If so, use it sparingly. My Sony DVM-4CLD tape came with some MiniDV deck I had at work, and it recommends loading it into the camcorder, punching play and allowing it to run only about 10 seconds.

In fact, here is a tape vendor’s description of the DVM-4CLD:

Head cleaning tape for Mini DV video cameras. Improve picture quality and sound by maintaining your camcorders heads. Insert the cleaning cassette into your Mini DV camcorder, press play or start button, after running the tape for 10 seconds press the stop button. Do not rewind the cassette after each use. Rewind the tape completely only after it has reached the end. The entire tape can be used twice before replacing with a new cleaning tape. Not suitable for recording.

Anyway, I would seriously look into cleaning this camera of yours before going to any great expense.

By the way, you didn’t mention if this problem had occurred suddenly. Was one recording good and then the next one bad? Additionally, the fact that you appear to re-use tape suggests to me that this is a tape clogging problem. If at all possible, I strongly recommend against re-using miniDV tape. Particularly if you commonly use inexpensive, consumer grade tapes.

Finally, and sadly, given your example #2, I don’t think it is likely that your recordings are intact. I have witnessed similar problems where the playback was all segmented such as yours, but the problem existed only in a playback deck, and the original recording was complete. A cleaning of the playback VCR revealed that the original recording was okay — quite a relief. But, in your situation, the fact that previously recorded video has not been recorded over would suggest that one set of heads was not functioning properly during the record process. Sorry.

I hope this helps. Good Luck.

By the way, this is my first reply to a post on Creative Cow. Sorry for its length.

Joe