Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
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Got to this thread late, but yes, seriously consider getting the 7D. I am using a T2i (similar to 7D – I like the 7D just a little bit better) right now with a 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm Nikon lenses with EOS adapters on them. You can get the adapters here: https://myworld.ebay.com/kawaphoto/ – these are great aluminum (I think) adapters and fit very snug with the Nikon lenses and they’re very well made. We bought 3 since they were so cheap and it makes quick changes a breeze.
To consider: you will be doing your exposures manually – no auto exposures any more; get a decent light meter; no zooming unless you have an even f-stop throughout – maybe forget zooms altogether; DSLRs are kinda light – I weight mine down with washers and/or small weights taped to the sides, screwed to the base, or baseplate to keep wobble down; check this site (I love this site and its been recently updated): https://nofilmschool.com/dslr/
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Okay now is where you get into non-square pixels a bit. The DVX does an SD version of 16×9 where it stretches the frame to mimic widescreen 16×9 (still 720×480 with irregular pixels to mimic 16×9). The HMC shoots full resolution 16×9 (1920×1080). The HMC is much better for widescreen and HD than the DVX-100. Remember, though: HD is still kinda catch-phrasey. Cable is still SD and satellite is still heavily compressed HD. Regular broadcast is still the standard at full-res HD. If you want, spend the $ on an HMC-150 and you are covered and it’s tapeless. If you want to save a little, get the DVX-100 and get cozy with a tape workflow. I love the DVX-100, but I also love the HMC-150. If I wasn’t already using DSLR video, I’d have an HMC-150.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I agree – don’t use a DSLR for long shots – not just the overheat factor, but audio issues. It’s really not built for it. I use ’em for indie film, but those are short shots usually no more than 5 min at a pop and then camera sits and cools while we prep the next shot. Think seriously about getting something like an HMC-150 or even an old DVX-100. Your audio will go out of sync – unless you use the built-in audio which is dismal at best. Not to say it can’t be done – I just wouldn’t recommend it – I’d get something designed to shoot continuously for hours on end.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Underweighting is a problem – you wind up with a kind of pendulum-like wobble. Imagine holding a string with a weight so the weight is stationary at the end of the string. If you move your hand from side to side, the weight’s inertia will try to keep it in place and it will lag behind your hand, then swing back and forth.
Now, if you are only 1/2 pound away there are some things you can do: 1) add more equipment – you’ve already mentioned that might be a possibility, 2) add weight – not much, but a dozen or so washers can be screwed or just duct-taped (or gaffer-taped) to the platform (the inch-wide washers weight about 1/2 oz each so get like 16-24 at a few cents each and you’re covered) – make sure to attach right around the camera’s center of gravity – just underneath or on either side should work, 3) don’t worry about it – with a significant weight difference, it can be an issue, but 8 oz is not a big deal, but remember the pendulum thing and prepare to counter it, 4) check the Steadicam Operator’s site: https://www.steadicam-ops.com/, Alternatives to Steadicam: https://www.urbanfox.tv/articles/cameras/c16steadicamcomp.htm, Steadicam Forum – https://www.steadicamforum.com/, 5) call and talk with Glidecam for advice – they want to make a sale and they will know more about the product, then compare their advice with more expert advice – I’m no expert, but I’ve built my own steadicam-like devices in the past with springs and arms and gimbals, etc. I know why you buy them versus making them yourself, too. I still don’t own one I haven’t made, tho. 😉
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Put it this way: I used to shoot on film. I love film. To me, it is far better than anything out there, BUT it’s expensive and time-consuming.
When the RED came along, I was excited – a camera that shoots a series of single frames (high res ones, too) and you can eliminate half the work flow! No more film processing, transferring to digital, etc. Now, you go straight to digital and…oh wait, most theaters don’t support digital – they still want a 35mm print. Almost there. If you’re going straight to video, get the best image you can. Shoot HD, but if you’re a student or on a limited budget, I’d get a DVX-100B (or C) or a tapeless format like the HMC-150 (or a DSLR if you want to go that route).
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I like the external device option. My only comment is from the tutorial you sent – I notice the exposure seems to fluctuate from frame to frame – there are flashes of light and dark places. I’m wondering if he had it set to automatic or something or if this is what others using the 7D/T2i have seen. Hmmmm.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I’ve never used an external time lapse with the T2i per se, but I’ve used the remote control software via USB on my mac. Might not be the most cost-effective solution if you don’t have a machine to spare (I was thinking a mac mini might work). On the other hand, the T2i takes the same remotes as previous Rebel models so there ought to be an existing solution out there (Canon lists RS-60E3, RC-1, RC-5, and RC-6 as compatible) and I’ve seen plenty of DIY solutions if you want to start soldering. 😉
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
If the projector will do 16×9 (not necessarily HD) you could try exporting as an HD project, then make it a DV Anamorphic project in compressor. If the projector doesn’t do wide, the DVD player should just add the letterbox bars. If you are coming straight off your machine or a file to the projector, then compress down and have it add the letterbox bars – but run it at DVD quality to keep streaming rates up (dvd is only like 6mbps versus 100 for full broadcast HD or 25 for bluray) and run it from quicktime. A lot depends on your and their equipment.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
If it’s the lens I’m thinking of it has an fstop range of something like f3.5-5.6, right? What’s happening is during a zoom, it’s stopping the lens as you zoom. You need a lens with a fixed f-stop during zoom or it will stop down during zoom. It’s because the lens is for photography where that feature won’t be noticed, but will be during video. The lens is working as designed, but not as expected. If you need to zoom during a shot, you may be able to get away with a steady f-stop above f5.6, but I haven’t tried that.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Hey, there’s also a thread on this here: https://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=186693
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293