Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
-
Prime lenses have a fixed focal length – no zoom.
We have one adapter for each lens so we don’t swap them out. Since they were only $15 or so each, it was a nothing expense. I’ve not had problems with them breaking so I can’t answer that question. I don’t think they’re really designed to come off easily and I can’t imagine holding up a shoot because I wanted to switch from the 35 to the 50 so we just have them all set up already. If you spend $100 on a used Nikon 35mm lens, it wouldn’t make sense to jeopardize the whole thing with a cheap adapter. These are cheap so we have extras instead. There’s always a way around a problem. 😉
This is where we got ours from: https://shop.ebay.com/kawaphoto/m.html
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
We are using a set of Nikon primes (35mm, 50mm, and 85mm) with the cheap kawaphoto adapters from eBay. We’re shooting a feature with them on the T2i right now. Sorry, don’t have footage to show yet – we’re still in production. We LOVE the Nikon lenses – we miss zooming, but it forces us to be better filmmakers. Strongly recommend a good light meter, too. Check this link out for DSLRs and used lenses:
https://nofilmschool.com/dslr/
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Check this thread:
https://dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?p=1972196
Looks like it could be a hardware issue.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Hey there, we’re shooting a feature with the T2i right now. We picked up two of these:
A total of 4 batteries (and 5 total with the one that came with the camera). We go through at least 2 batteries a day and we keep a charger on set to charge them as soon as they die. I usually keep one with me, too as well as spare memory and lenses.
The batteries work as expected and seem to be fine. We finish shooting in about 2 weeks – I’ll let you know how they work then. I would say get a second charger if you think you will be shooting constantly. We knocked out 8 pages today with multiple angles and takes and I finished one battery and loaded another which will be good for a bit.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Hey, the easy way to do this is with Quicktime Pro:
Go to Quicktime Pro, go to File >> Open Image Sequence. Select the files you want to use and click on Open. It prompts you to set your frame rate. It runs from 10 seconds per frame for say slideshows to 60 (or 30 or 24 or 29.97 or 23.98, etc) frames per second. I’d set it to 60 FPS and save as a linked movie file in Quicktime (no compression) using File >> Save As… and change to “Reference Movie.” This is useful if the images are really large (my most recent example was a series of still time lapse frames from a Canon T2i). You can also just do File >> Export and save as a video file and change the image sizes there. Depends on what you want to do with the final. If you plan to make changes to the sequence, then link it all together as a movie for a fast fix. If you plan to conform footage for film later, this option might work better. If you plan to just make a video in the end, don’t bother with huge image files and trim it all down to a nice simple video file using Apple ProRes or a similar format.
Then open the linked movie file in FCP and use the time shifting in FCP rather than messing with still frames in FCP – you can easily keyframe the time changes for sequences that need to change their timing for a single movie sequence. This option will be much faster than single frames in FCP.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Maybe I’m old school, but the photoshop deal sounds the best. I would go with what you are most comfortable with, too. It’s important to learn new and interesting things in Motion to improve your workflow, but if you can do the job faster in Photoshop layers, that’s what you should do. I’m not as experienced in Motion as I could be though and I’m interested in seeing what others say.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Try https://www.oceanfootage.com – don’t know much about them, but it might be a better find.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Oddly enough, I just built a stabilizer – spring articulated and all. In fact, I just ordered some quick release stuff for the camera to attach to the plate on top. The gimbal rig is a slightly-modified version of the “Shock Corridor” stabilizer from Killer Camera Rigs That You Can Build (https://www.dvcamerarigs.com/). The springs are of my own design based on the original patent of the Steadicam (https://www.howstuffworks.com/steadicam.htm – only made with common supplies from Ace Hardware and Home Depot). Still working on it, too.
Here’s a pic of my mount I made for a feature we are working on: https://www.finleywade.tv/blog_page1.html (have to scroll down to the bottom).
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I’ve only ever used the Nikon to EOS ones from Kawa. I love ’em. They are pretty much a permanent part of the Nikon lenses I have now. Very, very thin – minor differences in focal length noticeable when I’m very close to the subject, but just turn the focus a hair and it’s fine – unless you rely exclusively on the numbers on the lens which I don’t. Remember: if you are getting old-school manual lenses for a DSLR, get a light meter – you’ll be very glad you did.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Anne, do you want the long answer or the short one? 😉
Short answer is NTSC is not a true 30fps, it’s 29.97 fps (long answer here). Sooo, 24p isn’t a true 24 fps, it’s 24 fps using a 2:3 field pulldown to be pretty close to 24 fps when using NTSC. Consequently, 24P is actually 23.976 fps. The P just means progressive and it means you capture 2 fields at once (like film captures an entire frame or 2 fields).
Your NLE should still handle it. If you are planning on going to PAL, it’s the same conversion you would use going from 24 to 25fps. Don’t worry about the frame rate, you lose something like 2.4 frames every 100 seconds at 24P (3 for 30P).
Hopefully, Canon or some other DSLR maker will come out with 24PA mode – a different pulldown method that allows you to capture a fairly true 24fps that your NLE will be able to convert more directly to a true 24fps. We’re not there yet.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293