[John Sharaf]

Again, I realize I’m jumping in late here, but I am a dedicated Cineo owner/operator and just want to mention a few things, in case you haven’t alrerady decided.

In truth, I’m not familiar with the Area 48, and frankly intregued by what is said of its extra brightness, but in my use of the Cineos (I have two each of the HS and LS) I have to say that in most cases I’m dimming them down, so that the need for more brightness is not present. This is especially true with the HS and less true with the LS. But I am using them both in high and low ambient conditions, and when lighting faces and talking heads, one can often bring the light close enough that there’s noise with light volume.

The ability to use batteries is immense, I agree and if it’s the small unit your interested in, I’d look very carefully at Cineo’s new battery version.

Ultimately the best way to decide is to put the units side by side and test them in the modes you’re most likely to encounter. Not to do this will haunt you because whichever light you buy will probably last for the rest of your lighting career!

Cheers,

JS

[John Sharaf]

HI Ali,

Jumping in late here, but I’d suggest you use your biggest light, probably the Joker to light the background and the china balls to light the people at the tables.

Night is often portrayed as cool, as if lit by moonlight and people will look best in a warmer glow.

JMHO

JS

[John Sharaf]

HI Todd,

Just to clarify, the Mini Slide from The Slider, which comes in both 3′ and 5′ versions is a much smaller, lighter and more nimble version than the heavyweights you’re referring to that previously were used with full sized film cameras. The minis are more appropriate for Alexa, Red, F5/55 and Canon 300/500 with zoom lenses, all of which can build out to a considerable size and weight with the gak that’s normally attached.

JS

[John Sharaf]

Hi Todd,

I highly recommend a 5′ length.

I have the 5′ Mini Slider from “The Slider” which is considered by many in La the first and best Slider in the business. It doesn’t come cheap, but mine is already paid for, as I use it almost every day!

Here’s a link, although they only show the 3′ version: https://www.theslider.com/index.html

Their units use “medical grade” ball bearings and are essentially CNC machined I-Beams.

One great trick is to use “painters sponges” at both ends of travel for brakes.

Cheers,

JS

[John Sharaf]

Yes, and this is the only workaround you need. Plus a second light in to the pigtail and aim off camera if necessary.

JS

[John Sharaf]

HI Seth,

As I say, it works great. The problem with the transformer is that it’s heavy and big, which are both problems for traveling, especially abroad where excess baggage is very expensive. And yes, any two 120 volt devices turned on in series work!

JS

[John Sharaf]

HI Seth,

The cheapest, easiest and most elegant solution is to simply wire up a pigtail that puts two US household connectors in series; when you plug in two 120 volt instruments (like your Divas) they “add up to 240 volts”. Only when you turn the second unit “on” will the current flow through both of them.

I’ve used this many times in 220 countries. Believe me, carrying a transformer is the last thing you want to do.

JS

[John Sharaf]

Hi Steve,

Let me ask a stupid question; is your Diva a “Universal” model? If not it will flicker in 50hz countries.

JS

[John Sharaf]

Wait a second! To correct Divas to tungsten, just switch the globes to tungsten. That’s one of the main advantages to the whole KF line.

JS

[John Sharaf]

Hi Ty,

Probably not more than 1/250 or 1/500th.

Can’t imagine a use for higher speeds except to further increase the strobe effect or for instrumentation purposes where an especially sharp or “frozen” image would be helpful for interpretation (think surveillance or forensics).

JS