Forum Replies Created

Page 35 of 136
  • John Sharaf

    October 6, 2010 at 10:10 pm in reply to: Super Focused Look

    Whatever it takes to drive the iris wide open; neutral density filters, pola filters, shutter speed, gain, extender, you name it!

    JS

  • John Sharaf

    October 6, 2010 at 3:12 pm in reply to: Super Focused Look

    While this topic has been thoroughly discussed here and many other places, the way to achieve the narrow depth of field “look” is:

    Use as large an imager as possible. This is why the current fad of DSLR’s is so popular. Small 1/3″ consumer and prosumer cameras are at a particular disadvantage. Furthermore, this is why 35mm cameras as used in the cinema are well known for this effect, and essentially created the example that everyone now tries to emulate.

    Shoot at the widest iris setting. This minimizes depth of field (DOF).

    Use as long (telephoto) a lens as possible as this increases the short DOF effect. You’ll note in your example video that the background noticeably softens when they zoom in.

    On cameras with small imagers you can use adapters such as RedRock or Pro35 to shorten the depth of field with larger lenses refocused on ground glass that then becomes a relay image.

    Finally, there are even ways in the edit room to “de-focus” portions of the frame, but this requires a lot of work matting out the backgrounds, especially when the foreground or camera moves.

    It is noteworthy that you’ve identified a “look” that you like and aspire towards. Pre-visualizing the result and thinking how to create it is exactly the path to success.

    Good luck!

    JS

  • John Sharaf

    October 1, 2010 at 7:45 pm in reply to: What is the ASA of a HPX 2000?

    David,

    While I’m not particularly familiar with the 2700, I know you can set the Zebra to act like a waveform, say at 50ire and extrapolate the ASA. I’d guess about 320-400. You could compare a reading at these speeds to the momentary auto iris on a chip chart and correct a little bit as required to hone in on a ballpark ASA.

    JS

  • John Sharaf

    September 29, 2010 at 7:14 pm in reply to: True tungsten for Kinos

    I feel your pain! I only use Kino 2900k tubes, like built in +1/8 CTO.

  • John Sharaf

    September 22, 2010 at 5:25 pm in reply to: CCU-M5 information

    Fred,

    You might be being a little hasty; check the menu for an on/off CCU function before you dismiss the camera as broken.

    JS

  • John Sharaf

    September 21, 2010 at 9:07 pm in reply to: CCU-M5 information

    Fred,

    Although I am not expert on that particular camera nor CCU, I know that Sony CCU’s must sometimes to turned on in the menu. Try searching the menu operations and maintainance pages for something appropriate. Also, with some models you must either connect the CCU with the camera power off or recycle the power once connected for a proper “handshake” between the two units. It could also be as simple as a bad cable!

    JS

  • John Sharaf

    September 20, 2010 at 10:51 pm in reply to: E-15030 and other strange HDSDI behavior

    Michael,

    Sound like the “camera from hell”. I’m not particularly familiar with that model, but I’d try a factory reset, usually in File menu and referred to as “standard”. Another thing to confirm is that your “area’ is set to NTSC, meaning the system frequency is 59.94 (not 60hz). If all else fails, I recommend you call Sony Support Hotline 1-800-883-6817, these guys really know their stuff and have always solved my problem when I was really stumped.

    JS

  • John Sharaf

    September 17, 2010 at 4:54 pm in reply to: Making HD Picture “Pretty”

    Lawrence,

    First off, I’d run the detail level down about 25%. Most cameras come with detail too high, and it’s only to be expected as the manufacturer wants to give you a “sharp” picture. As regards filtration, in HD, I recommend using half the strength that you’re used to using in SD. For example if you’re used to a #2, then use a #1 instead. I think you’ll be a lot happier with these adjustments.

    JS

  • John Sharaf

    September 4, 2010 at 5:19 pm in reply to: Vignetting on 82mm thread HD Fujinon Lens

    I’d talk directly with Jeff Giordano at 16×9 about the most appropriate Chrosziel offering. He’ll either sell direct at a discount or send you to a dealer who will.

    Here’s link to their website:

    https://www.16x9inc.com/store/cart.php

    JS

  • John Sharaf

    September 1, 2010 at 6:15 pm in reply to: Camera Mat

    Sean,

    I just want to make sure you understand that putting a black “frame” in the matte box will not create a hard edged frame on your recorded picture; it will be a soft edged rectangle and different for each focal length. The advice from Calumet about “Custom Matte Boxes” is incorrect. When mattes are used in matte boxes it is to limit the stray light and flares on the front element, and never to intersect the photographed image.

    In film the concept of “hard mattes” applies to a matte that is placed at the film aperture or in the projector aperture, so that it’s focus and hardness is the same as the in-focus picture or projection.

    The only way to alter the aspect ratio in video, is as Todd has described, place the frame over the picture in post.

    JS

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