Jerry Krantz
Forum Replies Created
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I actually kinda figured it out earlier. I used Track motion for the 2D shadow, had the shadow start small and come to meet the clip when it “landed” I used pan/crap to bring the spinning clip in from outside the frame, and shrink down to create the “falling” effect.
I removed the motion from the pan/crop and used Track Motion to deal with the motion of the clip. No more chopped up shadows.
This unfortunately limits me to 1 rotation, where pan/crop could store the info for numerous rotations (3 or 4 while the clip was “falling”) per keyframe. so I have the shadow and motion figured out, just need to add keyframes to go past 360 degrees of rotation.
but thanks for your response!
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Thankfully the filters are not crazy expensive. But it does sound worth trying out. That example is the worst I could find. And the comments in this post have been really helpful in giving me other things to watch out for. Most of the clips I took at that skatepark, the subjects are not as back lit.
Most places are not as brightly lit as that place. So something somewhat cheesy, like a star filter, will only make up a small portion of a larger project. My biggest battle, overall, is poor lighting and trying to even up outdoor and indoor shots. And good shots from this skatepark should make nice segue’s between darker indoor shots and brighter outdoor shots.
I’ve made a few shorts before, but on old low end equipment. Moving up to a camera that is decent. That is really bringing in a lot more clarity, and obstacles of its own regard.
I am so glad I started this thread, you people have been a great help and inspiration.
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So would a 4 or 6 point star filter refract the light enough before it hits the CCD that it would prevent over saturation and subsequently the creation of the vertical lines?
In the image as a whole will bright stars direct focus away from the subject? Thankfully the subject matter is strong.
I found some 37mm mount 4 and 6 star filters for somewhere around 20 bucks a pop. Think I will have to play around and see how it looks playing through Vegas at 1 fps. Time for a new computer.
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Hey Thanks for the great ideas to shift focus from the refracted lights and clean up the scene.
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The gist was to correct the lights at the camera for freedom in angle.
In one situation I may be following a person shooting while riding my bike on the ramps. Another they may be 8+ feet in the air. Lastly top down angles are very undramatic in most clips. The angle can make a simple stunt look huge, or a huge stunt look easy.
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Todd and John, Thank you for your comments.
I was hoping there would be like a specially polarized filter or something that could work miracles. I had not really taken much notice of the vertical smearing in the video until you pointed it out. But I am of course more concerned with the hallway of lights in the subject.
And again thanks for the thorough and prompt response!
Jerry
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No one has mentioned this yet, and hopefully you have not gone out shooting.
Either keep the camera warm, or keep it cold. Lets say your out for the day and the camera is really cold when you get back to your room. Let it warm up for 48 hours, as it warms up water will condense inside it. The long time is to let the water evaporate from the internals of the camera. This applies to any electronic device, including your laptop etc.
Your camera’s electronics function fine down to virtually any temperature. But you will have to safeguard against condensation from a warm microchip in a cold environment.