Jeff Carpenter
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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>>Because that is how they make money.
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That makes sense for companies that make money from software.
Panasonic, however, makes money by selling hardware. Restricting what computers can play with their hardware doesn’t seem to do anything for Panasonic’s bottom line that I can see.
It WOULD help Apple out a lot, however. So I don’t know anything, but it seems we can make a pretty good guess about who’s idea this was.
So we’re left with a situation where the people writing the software are different from the people restricting the software. Why this is so we can only guess at, but I’m betting that ‘compensating the creators of the software’ isn’t the reason here.
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Well, that’s lame, but here’s your workaround:
1) Go into iPhoto’s prefrences and go to Advanced. Un-check the “Copy items to the iPhoto Library.”
2) Start a new folder for all your photos. Every time you import photos from a camera, just put them in a folder in this folder. Name them something simple like
2008-001
2008-002
2008-003
etc.So each photo represents 1 import session. You’ll never have to look in here for anything, just keep it neat enough that it’s not a huge mess.
3) After you’ve copied the photos to the computer, select all the photos and drag them to iPhoto. It will import them to the library and organize them, but the links will go to the actual photos without moving them.
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This solves your problem from now on. For work already done I’m not sure…you can make a new folder for each event you have, drag them out and then re-import them, I guess. I don’t know how many photos you have and if that’s practical or not.
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You need to call LaCie and see if they have any policy for reparing drives. I don’t have experience with them, but the same thing happened to me with another drive company. That company was able to copy the data onto a new drive for me and send that back to me.
That company had a warrenty for that sort of thing that comes with the drive, so it was free. I don’t know what LaCie’s policy is, but they’re the best ones to help you out.
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>>Any caveats I should know about using your suggestion?
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Heh…well, actually I always do a total wipe and re-install too! So I don’t have any experience with this A&I method either. I suggest it, though, because I hear it suggested more often than the other two methods every time I read or hear about the subject. It seems to work well for a lot of people.
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Well, yes, wiping the drive takes more time and is more complicated. He’s right about that. But if someone (you, in this case) understands that and is willing to put in the extra time then I don’t see any reason to argue with them.
His reasons are all legit, but it seems to me that you understand the pros and cons of both options and have made your choice. I view it as my “job” around here to make sure people understand their choices. Since you’ve reached that point I’d back off if I were him and let you do it the way you want to.
That said, using the “Archive and Install” option is a bit of a compromise between the basic upgrade and a total wiping of the drive. It clears out system files and makes them from scratch, but it saves your personal data and applications. This is generally seen as a “best of both worlds” kind of solution, so maybe you should consider it.
(And of course, it should go without saying, but back up all your data before doing ANY of these methods.)
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>> All of the Studio apps don’t release RAM well at all.
Yeah, they’re not great, but he’s saying that all 4 GB are not being released. I’ve never had it keep that much RAM once I quit everything.
If he’s got 4 GB being locked off after quitting I’d think there was actually something wrong. Or is that normal and I’m the fluke? I’m only basing this on my own experiences.
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Once it quits, you should be fine. That’s not happening?
Go to the Activity Monitor and look at the RAM pie chart. When you quit Final Cut, watch the red and yellow sections (Wired and Active).
They don’t go back down once you quit Final Cut? They should go down. Not all the way back to what they were after a fresh boot, but they should get much smaller.
If they’re not changing there’s some sort of problem that you should probably call Apple about.
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Well, this post makes me ask: Why do you feel the need to do this?
I can’t think of any reason, so I’m wondering if you have some specific one.
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If you can’t find anything to do this task, here’s the workflow I’d suggest:
1) Export your header and footer as Quicktime files that have the same settings as the original videos.
2) Open those files plus one of the subjects in Quicktime. Copy and past the header and footer from player to player. Use the playhead to show where the ‘paste’ should occur. Then save and close the video file. Then, move on to the next one.
3) Run all the finished files through Compressor and apply the watermark there.
Try this on 2 files to make sure it all works, but as long as it works I think this is the quickest and easiest method. Plus, step 2 could be taught to anyone, even if they don’t know anything about video editing.
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“More lossless” is a term that comes into play when lots of filters and alterations to the video are going on.
Ok, so there’s the answer to your original question: That’s not me for 90% of the work I do.
So, given what I do, I guess it just didn’t really matter which one I used. I was never able to find a difference in my own work, so I didn’t dwell on it too much at the time.