Jeff Carpenter
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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BUT… with FCP 5’s new “multi-cam edit” function, I don’t know HOW I’ll be able to continue this work-flow.
========I’ve been thinking about this a lot too. The best idea I have so far is to correct each track, export it and then re-import them to be edited, but with DV that’s a lot of re-compressing that I’d prefer to avoid.
The other choice is to just go through the timeline after I’ve edited it, dropping corrections where they’re needed and hoping there’s not enough problems to make the time saved by using multi-cam pointless.
Neither of these is a great solution, does anyone else have thoughts on this?
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…and the reason i will choose the PowerBook is because I really need the mobility.
====And that’s the reason a lot of other people edit on Powerbooks too. It’s the one good reason to edit on one, so I think you made the choice that’s best for you.
You’re going to need a firewire hard drive with a 7200 RPM drive. As far as I know, any drive like that will need to be plugged in somewhere else. (In other words, it won’t be able to draw its power from the computer.)
I don’t know what your options are for editing away from a power source. I know some people make low-rez versions of their video which COULD be edited off the internal drive and then the re-capture the full-rez video when they’re back home again. I don’t know if that’s the only solution or if there are fast enough hard drives that can run off of battery power. I’m sure someone else will be along shortly to let us know.
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There is no way I’m going to remember it correctly being aways from my Mac as I am. I’d better not tell you too much lest I get something wrong.
The bottom line is that you have “System Settings,” “User Prefrence,” and “Easy Setups.” In addition to that, in the log and capture window there are some more settings. Spend some time with ALL of those areas and you’ll soon start to figure out what is where. I can do it when I’m looking at it, but it’s too complex to do from memory.
(Look up some of those terms in the manual’s index. It really is all in there if you look long enough!)
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You can select as many clips as you want on the timeline and then drag the filter to one of the clips and it is copied to ALL of them.
Of course, you’d have to go in and adjust each on individually. Maybe you can save a filter in the browser with the settings you want before you drag it. But at any rate, the selecting-then-dragging thing does work.
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I’ve tried “Export-> Using QuickTime Conversion…”
====Yeah, don’t use that one, use the other one. If you’re having problems with that too then it might be something with the sequence or the way the video was captured. As Walter said, it needs to all be “lower” field first in the prefrences.
Instead of messing with your project too much, start another project and capture 3 minutes of new video. Check your settings as you go while you do all this to make sure everything’s what it should be for the project AND for the capturing. Make a DVD of that and see if it’s better or not. That will help you figure out of the problems really are Final Cut settings or not. There’s no sense spending a lot of time on FCP prefrences if you can find out that it’s not the problem very quickly by doing this.
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Todd, I didn’t think iDVD took MPEG files, though. Does the new version allow that?
SlowX, are you exporting using “Export at Quick Time” not “Quickime Exporter?”
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I got the 300GB, 7200RPM, Internal SATA/150 Hard Drive from Maxtor. It was $250.
One place to get it:
https://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?product_code=314395&pfp=BROWSEThere are some 400 GB drives out there but I found that they all have an 8 MB cache buffer while the 300 GB has a 16 MB cache. I decided that was a good reason to stick with 300 GB.
It’s worked just fine for me. Even if you want a smaller drive I would suggest Maxtor as a good brand.
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Fix #1: Make the letterbox in Photoshop. Make it on one layer with a clear center. Save it as a Photoshop file or a TIFF and import that. The transparency will be preserved.
Fix #2: Create black rectangles from the same pull-down menu where you get color bars from. Put two on the screen to make your bars.
Fix #3: Drag a “Luma Key” from the effects panel onto your gif. Adjust the settings so that it’s keying out “brighter” and drag the sliders around until it looks good. (This one is easiest but may not be the cleanest…but go ahead and try it first, though.)
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You should be fine. It should probably take about 3 hours for you, I would think.
I’d suggest looking in Compressor at the settings. I think you’ll find one for 2 hours at good quality, or something like that.
Find the setting for that and duplicate it 2 or 3 times. Then, go into each duplicat version and alter the bit-rate slightly. Lower the target bit rate about 0.3 on one and then raise it the same amount on another.
Then, select ALL of those settings at once and let it run overnight. By the time you get back tomorrow it will have finished all 4 or 5 compressions. Then compress your audio to AC3 and start measuring file sizes! Combining the audio and one video file, try to get as close to 4.3 GB without going over. That will give you a little extra room in case you add some menus later or something.
That’s the nice thing about the faster computers now. It’s not that you can compress in 2 hours, but rather that you can do 4 or 5 compressions overnight. That lets you get a bunch of choices in the morning which allows you to pick the very smallest amount of compression possible while still fitting everything on the disc.
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how long do you think it will take to compress a 2 hour (approx) sequence like this?
====I’d need to know more about your computer. On my old G4 system it would have taken about 20 hours. On my new G5 it would take about 3 or 4 hours.
Tell us what you have an I can give a guess. That’s all it would be, though, just a guess. It really depends the video itself and the settings you compress at.