George Griswold
Forum Replies Created
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It’s Sony, believe it. You are just the customer.
I had to find the same cable a few years back for my Z-1U and I ended up calling B&H and the person on the other end hooked me up in about 2 minutes. Order. Done.
At the time the Sony cable being offered was longer and built better than the one that ships with the camera. I then cut the ends off and used a decent quality Switchcraft set of RCA’s that I soldered on…. much better (no intermittent connections). The outer shells of the stock connectors are thin round continuous barrels of metal that don’t grab correctly (at all) and if you bend them for a good electrical contact they hold too tightly.
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Sorry if this got your hopes up– I had “Feature Request” inside the brackets and it removed the text….
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Where are all the industrial espionage experts? A company this big and no leaks! Maybe it isn’t a big deal….
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You can count on a few things…
It is a camera.
It is better than the EX-3.
It will cost $4K more, but add features that you posted on a forum months ago.
You will wish you waited for it.
Your clients will start asking for it in 3 months.
The EX-3 will ultimately be as good. Your clients will hire you for your boundless energy and skill, not your camera.
George
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Another observation… The use of minus green on the backlight is not recommended because of the hue that it puts on the edges of the subject. Using minus green with a blonde is a real mess. If you have the subject away from the green screen and have a nice rim light that works just fine with modern NLE keyers. The minus green trick is only necessary if you are crammed up against the backdrop… like in that hotel room the client got and told you it was “plenty big enough”.
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Tom and group,
I saw this post and this is an area that I had been putting off because of the spotty documentation. This spurred me to dig in and read all the Sony literature, watch NAB seminars, etc. In this post I will list and define the Detail settings as I understand them from my research.
Tests were done with a Chroma Du Monde 24 chart with resolution wedges (not the best DSC rez chart, but a start), an ISO 12233 rez chart viewed on 17″ Panasonic LH1700 LCD monitor. Would have nice to have a HD CRT, but 99.9% of the world will see the pictures on plasma or lcd…. after several steps in between. Given the steps that these images go through before they are viewed I think it is best to go easy on detail enhancement… a little will help the pictures “pop”, but too much will degrade the image really fast when it is compressed, transcoded, or otherwise trampled on.
Detail is a visual trick basically that adds an “outline” between any dark and light boundary in the video frame. The detail parameters control the strength, width, and other modifications of the detail circuits.
LEVEL Increasing this value raises the detail level. + is more. Easy.
FREQUENCY This controls the width of the detail effect. Lower value is a fatter line when detail is added. Higher value is a thinner line. Don’t go too low on this setting because odd things can happen when the width approaches the resolution of the image– can cause problems especially in the vertical detail.
CRISP Noise suppression level. Higher value reduces fine detailing and can reduce noise. Lower value allows detail to be applied to finer picture elements and can increase noise. I have tried several resolution targets and the effect of this adjustment is minimal from what I have seen.
H/V RATIO Ratio of the amount of detail applied to H lines vs. V lines. Higher value increases the V detail in relation to H. Lower value increases H detail in relation to V. My tests show that a negative value here is desirable. Excessive V detail can cause problems in encoding down the production chain. Also, excessive V Detail can cause interline twitter on some displays (esp. CRT).
WHITE/BLACK LIMIT Limits the amount of detail applied to bright and dark objects. Again in my tests so far I did not see an effect. For now I am going with zero.
Right now I have settled on these settings as a nice middle ground of enhancement versus purity:
LEVEL -20
FREQ +30
CRISP +40
H/V -45W/B LIMIT 0 (under investigation)
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Joe-
It seems to me that a few things could be causing problems..1. Green screen likes to be at 50 units… 30 may be low enough to show noise– especially of gamma curves are pulling that value up from even lower number.
2. I would lose the DOF adapter– does not perform its function in this setting and may also be inducing noise in what should be an even field of green. (The GG was on right? — who hasn’t done that once)
3. Cine 1 … I would stick with the standards for Green screen.Just some ideas…
George -
From Sony Parts site, I believe this is the tripod 1/4″ plate that attaches with four screws..
#217879302
BRACKET (TRIPOD)
$22.31Sony Parts site:
https://servicesplus.us.sony.biz/au-sony-parts.aspxYou can sign up, find the part (have to use full model name PMW-EX-3 to find the USA model) and then pay with Credit Card. I will check this part number against my service manual later…
George
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The small 1/4″ tripod mounting plate is a $23.00 part from Sony. If you can find someone to remove the screws from the camera you could replace this plate. Chances are just the heads popped off and can be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers. A local clock shop may be able to coax out any other screws that are broken off flush. If you send it to Sony they will likely want to replace the bottom frame piece… costly. You might also try Macie Video who could make the fix.
A glimpse at the bright side… if that piece had not failed you may have ripped the lens off the camera.
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I think that looks fantastic… I am working on a spot right now with the Letus… primarily with Nikkor 50mm f1.2… I feel like I have died and gone to heaven because of the great image control.
I will post when it is done… and I would love to see other Letus shoots if anyone has them to share.
George