Fred Jodry
Forum Replies Created
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Chris, there`s one thing you can try:
-Get a set of borrowed hard drives that you may zero- out the data on for the test. Zero- out each one and put them in. Do a regular install and start using them. If the RAID fails this then something`s wrong with the RAID. Maybe a cable, maybe the card, maybe an adjustment, or the computer doesn`t see the card. Obviously if something`s wrong with the RAID not the hard drives then maybe your old hard drives didn`t progress through the 2 steps of turning their data to scrambled eggs and you might be able to nurse them to back up (just transfer) their data onto the usual tapes or DVDs or spare hard drive. If hard drives are failing, try, -putting them on their backs such that the magnetic side is plainly warm but the electronic controller cards on them get cooled by a fan. – trade power supplies and connectors so that the difference in power supply voltage on the (5 and 12 volts and on new SATA drives sometimes a 3 volts too) get nudged upward and downward a percent or two and make the failing drives want to grab. – try turning off hard drives SMART in your computer setup bios or the card to ignore minor failure warnings.
You can try all 3 tricks at the same time if you want. It isn`t a tricky fumbler.
It`s also possible to buy a spare hard drive electronic card from DRIVE SOLUTIONS in California and see if a failed hard drive can be rescued with it.
Other than that, I`d buy a fresh set of Hitachis if I were you. -
Kesten, hard drive to hard drive and mother`s house works but it`s time for something bigger both in means and from the wallet.
1. Security: An $800 Winchester safe (or mother`s house).
2. Data backup: Since a terrabyte now and then starts to add up, get a Cache- A tape backup unit. It`s external CPU turns on and off in parallel with the tape drive`s job saving a lot of electricity and keeping the realistic workload on your computer balanced. In other words, you go, it gets (instead of you go, it crashes or slows). Since you`re a newbie you didn`t have time to build a substitute from scratch to save some money but at least the Cache- A will work perfectly well. Be sure to ask some of the little questions off of the salesman as you buy the Cache- A. There`s nothing like more advice.
3. I use https://www.tapeonline.com , right there above where you are reading now, for many of my cables and storage maedia (tapes) needs. If they can handle my budget they can handle yours.
4. Tiered storage, intermediate storage on an external hard drive (or RAID) instead of wearing out the archive tapes with dire use (and clumsy habits), is sensible. -
Chris, why did you roll a rebuild at the time? I suspect that the system was being protective from some odd dates and times settings being encountered. I don`t have your Atto card model in memory but by any chance were you using a model that has a battery and 128 MB or so of RAM that holds data in a shutdown or blackout? I could envision that a sample of the borrower`s data was in the memory if so- not matching a return to your machine until it is nulled. Unfortunately my guess is that you`ve turned the data on your drives to scrambled eggs and can now start rebuilding, starting with zeroing out the data of each drive. Fred Jodry
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Thanks, Gary. (That means I could borrow an ARRI lens for my 2/3 – inch camera almost without touching back focal distance, pretty funny!)
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Helpful note for all,
Choosing the wrong lens for the Alexa could mean that you might easily find a lens with a back focal distance that is too short. I am now suspecting that the distance from the PL mount or rearmost part of the lens barrel, both near each other, to the photosurface located inside the camera body might be the long, very usual 105 MM or 4 inches, approximately. This means that some lenses could be made to work but would suffer from the fact that the rearmost barrel zoom and iris adjustments could accidently be an inch or more inside the camera body where fingers would find fumblesome. -Or other lenses would not be able to fit in. -
Tiered storage is what is needed. If you saw into LTO (or any other) tapes constantly or often, there will be physical or data accidents to mention. Using an intermediate hard drive storage makes for a reduction of these accidents accordingly. Since you have already determined that LTO-4 storage looks like your plan, I would say that changing your plan probably means aiming for LTO-3 or LTO-5. The Arrays and Raid topic has some questions and answers too but you are on your way.
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Some of my cards are in crayon. I still use my Navy stencil.
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Ben, one of the closest or best things to your Mac PPC and price would be a BlackMagic Decklink and cables. Seems to me that the Intensity made before the Intensity Pro but still sold new will pop into your G5 (and would work standard definition all the way down to a G3, a G2 has a built in card!). Get the card new with it`s cables and don`t bother getting a used one for $189 instead of $199. The Intensity Pro is the same card except it has one of those PCIe x 1 slots on the bottom which is slower than some PCI slots, and which your Mac G5 doesn`t have. Your other card and cable will have to go on the shelf. They are not for a Mac. -Sorry for the stern news!
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Oh, I`m blind. Ben, I thought I had read that you were using a non- Mac Mac. Nonetheless the answer`s at least partly the same. Grabbing camera shots on a regular PC and a regular card is amongst your options, with burning a disk or memory stick to transfer it to the G5 for editing, is typical.
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Hurray I`m invited!