Derek Hall
Forum Replies Created
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BTW, on my last flight my toothpaste was confiscated from my carry-on. Although the tube was nearly empty, it was a 150gm tube, which ‘exceeded’ the 100gm/100ml limit for fluids.
At some point TSA also removed the single AA battery from the travel alarm clock in my check-in bag. I try hard to follow the regulations but it ain’t easy…
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The new law is that from January you can’t carry spare lithium ion batteries in check-in baggage, they should go as carry on.
I think the main risk is fire hazard and crushing or puncturing is a risk in aircraft holds. These batteries can only be put in checked in baggage if they are installed in a piece of equipment and the on/off switch is taped in the ‘off’ position, or if they are new batteries in the original packaging.
TSA prefer that the terminals are covered with tape and it’s better to have them in separate plastic zip-lock bags.
If they are found loose in check-in bags they may be removed by TSA.
Make sure you have at least one charged battery with you in case you are asked to turn on the camera.
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Excuse me for being loud, but ALWAYS MAKE A BACK-UP.
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Ken, that explains everything, thank you very much. I’m keen to get the KS8 gyro. I’m in a 240V country but that’s easily solved.
I’ve found the FigRig really manouverable and can do small crane shots, tracking shots with feet, good POV etc. Usually the only way to get away with these shots is to shoot wide, but the KS8 will add a new dimension and probably be hard to distinguish from Steadicam. I guess the hard part will be strengthening my arms to use the FigRig with the heavier EX1 plus the gyro.
As for low-budget aerials, I usually harness myself as far out on the helicopter edge as possible, with a cinesaddle tied to my legs and the camera sitting on that. I don’t anchor the camera to the cinesaddle but have it independently tethered to the aircraft. That works fairly well in a machine with well balanced blades. The Jetranger often has too much vibration but bigger machines and 3 blade machines are great. Hope it’s not long before I can try this with the Fig Rig and gyro.
Thanks Ken,
Derek
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Ken, thanks for that, very interesting. I have a Fig Rig but your post was the first time I learned about the Kenyon gyro and it looks great. I’m keen to get one now. However, two questions:
I note in the online literature that when using the Gyro the camera is supposed to be handheld or ‘free’, i.e. not attached to a fixed support.
Is it the case that because the Fig Rig is handheld it is not a rigid support, allowing it to be used with the Gyro?
Also, if I’ve got it right (I have my Fig Rig beside me now) the long bolt you got for the Gyro goes up into the FigRig support plate, replacing the rubber handled bolt that normally holds the release plate support, with the gyro sitting below? AAnd you need to remove the circlip to release the FigRig support plate bolt.
The bolt for the FigRig support plate looks like 3/8-inch but it’s Italian so could be 10mm (1cm).
Trying not to look stupid but just looking at my FigRig and figuring out how it would work – I’m very keen to try it.
Thanks,
Derek -
Michael, I agree, there are many things in the EX1 menu system which don’t seem logical. Also, the users manual lacks a lot of information so it’s left for owners to discover things by trial and error. Good luck.
Derek -
Ken, how do you mount the EX1 to the FigRig with a KS8? Thanks. Derek
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The course seems undervalued; $375 would be better value.
Needs a fourth day practical test on what participants learned in the first two days.
Certificated of course. -
It happens automatically when you import the media using the transfer tool. Or at least is does for me. We simply import from the first card, then from the next, and the software automatically configures the split clip as a single file.
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Michael, you’re absolutely right of course and I don’t have an answer to your question although I’ll experiment this weekend and let you know the results.
But when considering your query, it seemed illogical (of Sony) to have to set a Kelvin temperature using the PP because it’s a fiddly way to handle it considering you might want to change it several times a day. With that in mind I wondered if there was a reason why it’s not possible (on any camera that I know of) to manually adjust the Kelvin reading. I use color cards to cheat the temp but it would be cool to have manual control.
Anyway I’ll see what happens when I do a PP test. Cheers.