Forum Replies Created

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  • Dennis Size

    June 2, 2008 at 2:46 am in reply to: Lamp ANSI codes, differences…

    A crank? ….hardly!
    A curmudgeon? …no where near as much as I would have, if you hadn’t saved the day — answering the question and expressing my opinion so eloquently for me!
    THANKS! 🙂

    DS

  • Dennis Size

    May 29, 2008 at 11:43 pm in reply to: Lamp ANSI codes, differences…

    As strange as it may sound, there’s absolutely nothing I can say.
    No one has ever totally explained my passionate hatred, and covered all the reasons why you should not use a DP light, as well as Todd Terry has!
    Thank you Todd. 🙂

    DS

  • Dennis Size

    May 29, 2008 at 1:02 am in reply to: Lamp ANSI codes, differences…

    If I only had a Lowell DP light 1000kw I think I’d just kill myself or go into another line of work. It’s a fixture I avoid using at all costs.
    If my mother was scammed by a snake oil saleman and ended up with a DP light, desperately needed that fixture, and begged for my advice on the best lamp to use, I would advise her to buy an EHG which at 750w would be cooler, yielding a warmer color at 3000K, and last a hell of a lot longer at 2000 hours (as opposed to the 300 hours of an FEL. Even better yet — if she didn’t need to cook turkey with the light I’d recommend she buy the even cooler EHD, at 500w — but still warm in color at 3000K and long lasting at 2000 hours.

    DS

  • Dennis Size

    May 28, 2008 at 5:51 am in reply to: Lamp ANSI codes, differences…

    Every lamp code (“flavor”) has a difference that is plainly listed on the lamp data sheet. I’ve attached it below for you to see. Go to the LOWEL data sheet to see it more concisely — and in pretty colors. Each column has a particular designation such as voltage, wattage, Color temperature, average lamp life, etc.
    Look over the table carefully and you will see the diffrerences. Choose wisely as to which lamp serves your needs best. If you’re unclear, then just go with the recommended FEL…. although that old 1000 watter should only be used to make toast!

    DP Light Lamp & Beam Data

    EHC 120 500 3200 300 hr 43 (465) 390 (4200) 9:1 678 (7300) $37.50

    EHD 120 500 3000 2000 hr 35 (375) 339 (3650) 10:1 743 (8000) $37.50

    EHF 120 750 3200 300 hr 73 (780) 554 (5960) 8:1 892 (9600) $37.50

    EHG 120 750 3000 2000 hr 70 (750) 390 (4200) 6:1 827 (8900) $37.50

    FEL 120 1000 3200 300 hr 88 (950) 711 (7650) 8:1 1161 (12500) $37.50

    JCV220V-500WBM 220 500 3000 2000 hr 43 (465) 242 (2600) 6:1 505 (5450) $37.50

    JCV240V-500WBM 240 500 3000 2000 hr 45 (490) 218 (2350) 5:1 449 (4850) $37.50

    FKR/230 230 650 3100 300 hr 61 (660) 381 (4100) 6:1 734 (7900) $57.50

    FEP/230 230 1000 3200 150 hr 77 (825) 627 (6750) 8:1 1074 (11560) $43.00

  • Dennis Size

    May 28, 2008 at 5:30 am in reply to: Beat of Music

    The best way is to have the lighting properly cued and programed through a lighting control console of some sort ….with the cues “played back” by the programmer, or console operator.

    DS

  • Dennis Size

    May 28, 2008 at 5:26 am in reply to: Shooting singer in recording studio

    “What lighting set up should I use to be most flattering to the singer. I would like to just do it with one light…”

    These two statements don’t equate. One light will not be the most flattering.

    “She is African American if that is a consideration for the skin tones.”

    That’s a BIG consideration…and also doesn’t equate with one light.

    DS

  • Dennis Size

    May 14, 2008 at 9:39 pm in reply to: What light to use to match sun light

    Lighting 101:
    Rule 1 — Never fight with God, You will lose.
    Rule 2 — Never shoot into the sun. The shot will suck.

    This shot sucked, as did the ensuing dozens of others from that angle. Of course, having to light 4 hours of live TV origination, over several city blocks and beachfront, with about 70 different angles and over 20 different locations, including a LIVE Concert with Enrique Iglesias it was a lose/lose scenario from the get-go!

    DS

  • Dennis Size

    April 23, 2008 at 3:59 am in reply to: Muslin Background

    The Altman Micro-Ellipse is a great, energy efficient CDM ellipsoidal fixture. I use them a lot. But for those on the “IKEA/HOME DEPOT” budget, the $500.00 price tag may seem a bit high …especially when the Source 4 Junior provides more opions for less money.

    DS

  • Dennis Size

    April 19, 2008 at 2:54 pm in reply to: Muslin Background

    When the Source 4 leko first came out, well over a a decade ago, I started doing the same thing — making gobos to use in them.

    DS

  • Dennis Size

    April 16, 2008 at 3:34 pm in reply to: Muslin Background

    In this crazy business, often the better way is not “the best” way for a particular job. One of the things I love most is the spontaneity and freshness each lighting job brings. What I enjoy most is how I can light the same exact dumb thing hundreds of times — but in a different way …..using different equipment and design process.
    The main point I’d like to leave you with is that you should not lock yourself into any one particular method — be it duplcating the precise way SOMEONE ELSE creates their ripples on a backdrop, or the use of one gimmick, instrument, technique over another. Disocver, play and learn your own methods. Ultimately it’s the end product and how it pleases the client — AND YOU — tha’s most important (and lately I find I am more interested in pleases myself — which almost always results in a happy client).

    DS

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