[David Rehm]

I would leave it like you have been doing it – nested in the 720p sequence. That is the way I shoot and edit as well. However I have, with 1080p footage, pushed the boundaries of Scaling with pretty good results. I usually will go 130-140% with no real noticeable quality loss. I have a couple of times even went up in the 170’s(%) and it worked for the particular shot.

Have any links to your work? Would love to check it out.

David

[David Rehm]

If you have access to a speaker anywhere in the church – place a recorder in front of it. It will turn out pretty good. Being there’s a balcony they might have some small speakers by the balcony.

In the past I have placed my Tascam Dr-40 on a tripod pointing at the speaker and it came out fine. Before I had my Tascam I used a Mini-disc recorder with a Radio Shack electret mic – it also turned out really well.

David

[David Rehm]

Hi Lisa,
Here is another idea that will help you get those close-ups you need. Shoot the ceremony @ 1080p and then nest this 1080p footage in a 720p sequence in your editing program. Now you can pan and zoom in (using the Position and Scale properties) and get even closer.

What I like to do also, when nesting a 1080p into a 720p, is keyframe the Scale and Position properties throughout the video or even make cuts. This gives it that extra professional edge.

Hope this helps,
David Rehm

[David Rehm]

The problem lies in the downscaling. All the popular editors cannot produce professional results when downscaling HD footage to SD – which in this day and age is puzzling and mindboggling.

Check out these two articles and you will learn the process. It’s all free programs available on the internet.
https://www.precomposed.com/blog/2009/07/hd-to-sd-dvd-best-methods/

https://www.precomposed.com/blog/2010/10/hd-to-sd-dvd-cs5-revisited/

The process looks intimidating and very involved but it’s not that bad once you do it a couple of times. In the long run it will save you lots of time in your renders.

Hope this helps,
David

[David Rehm]

I would do what has the best results. If you have multiple clips in a Premiere timeline you can select them all and send them to AE and AE will place each cut on its own layer.

So if you cut up your sequence – just select all the clips and right-click and send it to AE.

Hope this helps,
David

[David Rehm]

Here’s the Premiere workflow for frame rate conversion
In Premiere Pro…
Nest your original footage into a sequence of the frame rate you desire. This is essentially a reverse pulldown – frames are being added. This is a typical process but it can look a little abrupt.

Other options to use…
Same scenario as above but right-click the footage in the timeline and choose Frame Blend (this will create smoother motion in the clip)

This is as good as it gets in Premiere Pro

Do you have After Effects?
Use AE to morph between frames (and not just dissolve between frames like in Premiere)
>send footage to After Effects
The comp settings should be the intended frame rate
The clip should be the original frame rate that you want to change.
>(globally) enable Frame Blending
>check the Draft switch too (for the layer)
This does a very good job at blending the frames

But for the maximum quality
>check the switch again and this will give the best results. Every frame will be a whole frame.
Of course render time will be much longer

Hope this helps,
David

[David Rehm]

An HD monitor is always best but ANY type of monitor is better than trusting you eyes on the LCD. I used an old television once for a project I was shooting at home.

David

[David Rehm]

The popular editors (Premiere, FCP, etc…) cannot produce pro quality images when downscaling to SD.

Read this article – it not only explains why but also provides the answer on how to achieve the results you’re looking for – and it’s free.
https://www.precomposed.com/blog/2009/07/hd-to-sd-dvd-best-methods/

Here’s a follow up article
https://www.precomposed.com/blog/2010/10/hd-to-sd-dvd-cs5-revisited/

Also – here is Jeff Bellune’s tut/info on this same process
https://bellunevideo.com/tutdetail.php?tutid=14
https://bellunevideo.com/tutdetail.php?tutid=10

The process will look like a hassle and probably overwhelming but it will save you much time in the long-run and you’ll have better results.

Hope this help,
David

[David Rehm]

You could do either but the custom picture styles are easy to install. You will not mess your camera up in any way shape or form. The camera is meant to load these styles into it. I did it for the first time and with no problems. Just follow the instructions.

Also think of it this way – If you still think you could mess things up (our minds have the tendency to let us think like this) Nikons have an option of resetting the camera back to their factory defaults with the press of 2 buttons on the camera simultaneously.

I use, for the most part, the AlvaroYus-Curve Picture Style, for most things.

I haven’t experimented with the picture styles on this link yet:
https://www.similaar.com/foto/flaat-picture-controls/index.html
The Flat_11 is supposed to be the workhorse. I’m actually going to experiment with them tomorrow (we’re taking the kids to a farm to go on hayrides)

I would recommend installing ALL the custom picture styles and then taking your camera out and test film 10 seconds or so of the same shot at the same settings – using each picture style. I would also test the Neutral that is already in the camera. Throw them in your computer and color correct them and see which is better for you.

The principle is – the flatter the picture – the better.

There is alot of free stuff out there to help you get more knowledgeable in DSLR shooting. But I would recommend the site lynda.com. You have access to ALL courses on the site for $25 a month. It’s a great deal. And they’re hassle free, with no problems, when you cancel.
Here a few courses you might find interesting:
https://www.lynda.com/Final-Cut-Pro-tutorials/DSLR-Video-Tips/103707-2.html
https://www.lynda.com/Premiere-Pro-tutorials/Up-Running-DSLR-Filmmaking/105371-2.html?srchtrk=index%3a1linktypeid%3a2q%3achad+perkinspage%3a1s%3arelevancesa%3atrueproducttypeid%3a2

David

[David Rehm]

For the ceremony I would use a zoom. A prime might be disastrous if you don’t have the correct angle and viewpoint. A friend of mine uses a Sigma 50-150mm F2.8 lens for all his wedding ceremonies and they look great. It’s almost $1000 but covers it all.

The most recent wedding I shot was outside. My kit lens actually did the trick (though I would never have used it for an inside wedding). The reception, which was inside, was dark in the room. I used a Nikon 35mmm 1.8. I cranked the ISO up to around 1200 – 1600 and everything thing turned out decent in post. I wouldn’t go over 1600 ISO as you will get the grain showing. Also you want to shoot flat as blacks will be crushed. Everything will turn out great in post.

David