David Eaks
Forum Replies Created
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JVC released a model with HD-SDI, $3,275.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/844862-REG/JVC_SR_HD2500US_SR_HD2500US_Blu_Ray_Disc.html
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[Michael Holmes] “If I am off here please let me know.”
Nope, you’ve got it!
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[Michael Sacci] “starting with HD (which is upper first) and going out to DVD you want to keep you field upper throughout the process”
[Jeff Pulera] ” I edit in 1080i and have never been thrilled with the end results on DVD, and have tried numerous workarounds and downconversion workflows”
Thanks for this info guy’s. It’s probably the reason I have not been satisfied with the results of any software methods and workarounds that I’ve tried…
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[Jeff Kirkland] “I try to get the clips that need Neat Video applied rendered to a new file as early in the edit as I can, or once I know Neat is going to do the job, I leave it to the very end of the edit to apply it.”
This is what I do as well, either apply and adjust the filter then export the clip and bring it back in to replace the original, or apply the filter then turn it off until the edit is complete.
But, Michael, the problem you describe does sound out of the ordinary. After applying the filter you should be able to go right back to work editing immediately. Only seeing slow performance while the playhead is over the unrendered clip with Neat on it. have you tried trashing preferences and/or reinstalling the plug-in?
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[Jeff Kirkland] “I made a similar script that uses Growl to send a push notification to my iPhone as soon as the render is done. I can add it as the post render task in Compressor or FCPX.”
Could you elaborate on this for us? I would love to have push notifications when my tasks complete.
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Hi Stacey,
While I have not used the Lanc remote you linked to, I do have two of the Sony RM-1BP’s and two of the Libec XC-3DV (also a Sony RM-1000BP scheduled to arrive in the next couple days). I found that I really like the Libec, it responds sooner, with less physical movement of the rocker, than the Sony. It may not have the speed or focus adjustments like the Sony, but I’m happy with the Libec’s sensitivity. Also, the cable on the libec is a separate piece, so it’s easy to just replace cable when it eventually goes bad.
I had used these remotes with the Canon G10 (basically an XA-10 minus XLR handle, impressive camerafor what it is IMO), before returning the camera because it’s HDMI does not send a full quality HD signal to the DVI input of my switcher. Still using the remotes with my NX5u’s.
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[Michael Slowe] ” Well, I use BitVice”
Thanks, heard of it many times. I’ll have to checkout the trial.
[Michael Slowe] “You predict the death of DVD’s, well they all say this but then it has to be files on drives for distribution, what a pain that will be”
Not so much predicting, as just wishing it, and I mean the death of DVD not Blu-ray. Hoping for Blu-ray to take its place. If (when?) it comes to distribution being “files on drives” (memory cards), the media will probably be the size of your thumbnail (like a micro SD card) and have even more storage space than BD’s. If the price of cards is the same as blank disc’s, I’m all for it. Either that or it all goes to the cloud and streams to the end user, but I think the consumers want to have their “thing on the shelf”. On the other hand, with Netflix, iTunes and download-only games on XBOX/iPhone etc. kids are growing up without the traditional physical media we have always known. Soon they’ll never even know that they are “supposed” to own a disc, everything is just there in their pocket wherever they are.
[Michael Slowe] “Jeff, I think you’ll find you are wrong, DV (SD?) interlaced is also upper field first.”
As Jeff said, you must be working in PAL. Over here it is lower field first for sure.
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NEAT Video is a pretty good noise reducer, just be prepared for long render times.
If you are strictly in post production and will not be shooting/reshooting anything, as Steve said, try crushing the blacks. Search for a tutorial video if you’re not familiar with the technique. If that isn’t good enough, try a noise reduction plugin like NEAT and maybe crush the blacks a little AFTER applying the NR. Noise Reduction should be applied first, before otherwise altering the image (you may need to turn off the NR effect while editing to get acceptable RT performance, editing with NEAT applied is slooowww). Only apply the NR to select portions of video that actually need it. If you want to work with the noise reduced video in the timeline, you can “bake in” the effect by exporting just the affected clip and bringing it back in to replace the original on the timeline. If you upload a short clip or even a still frame I’ll have a whack at it.
If you are still in production and are just trying to get your camera settings and lighting right before actually shooting, this is a whole other conversation. Unless “turn the lights up and the gain/ISO down” is good enough advice, we will need much more detail about your setup.
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When I say drop it into an SD timeline, I’m reffering to FCPX’s magnetic timeline specifically.
A method I’ve seen reccomended for FCP7, but never been satisfied with in my own tests, is to export from your HD timeline with SD settings, then bring that SD Prores file into Compressor to compress for DVD.
Before I switched to FCPX I was down scaling by using FCP 7’s Print to Video, playing out of a Matrox MXO2 LE/Mini to an AJA KiPro. Then bringing in the SD file from the KiPro to compress and author. Didn’t really matter which device I setup to do the actual scaling, they both do a great job. Maybe the KiPro is a little softer/smoother look, and the Matrox slightly sharper and “jaggy” or “harsh”. Nonetheless, hardware scaling is the only way I’ve been able to get DVD results from an HD source that I am satisfied with, FCPX aside.
Since moving to HD, clients have said that they noticed the improvement in video quality of their DVD’s… Even though to my eyes every DVD I’ve ever made since moving to HD makes me nauseous, knowing that whoever is watching it could be seeing HD instead. Either a Blu-ray or a digital file or YouTube, even compressing the show to h.264 at 586×320 and playing with HDMI output of an iPhone is better than DVD IMO. Personally I want DVD to die, now. Unfortunately for me and my opinion, the format still has a decent grip on life.
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Press config, press select up/down until you get to menu item- 1.1 record type, press select up/down until it reads VFR, press select to menu item- 2.1 video input, press adjust up/down until it reads SDI, press select to get to menu item- 2.2 audio input, press adjust until it reads XLR. Check the switch on the back by the XLR i/o connections for line/mic level. Check that menu items- 1.4 & 1.5 are set to “none”, Assuming that you don’t want to convert the incoming signal. Press config or stop to exit the menu.
Press status to check that it sees the signal as 23.98.
I “think” that will get you to where you want to be. I am not familiar with using the VFR record type or 720 24p. I suggest doing test recordings and bringing it into your NLE and confirm that you are getting exactally what you want. Get comfortable before entering a mission critical environment.