Thanks all –
Apparently I was doing something wrong, or Premiere just really didn’t want Page Up/Page Down to be the Zoom In/Zoom Out keys. I changed it to the up and down arrow and it started working immediately. Weird. That will save me scads of time.
On the topic of selecting tracks, the Toggle Target did work, although I’m not completely satisfied. It seems as though you can turn on/off all of the video tracks at once OR all of the audio tracks – but not not all video and audio tracks simultaneously with one keystroke.