Brian Reynolds
Forum Replies Created
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The 3.5mm output should be regarded as a ‘Last Resort’ output of a computer…… The preferred way is to use a firewire out or at least a USB audio interface….
https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/audio-interface-buying-guide/
‘Celebrating 40 years of Broadcasting Audio….
Started with Magnetic stripe and Sprocket holes to now Gigabytes and Touch Screen Mixing Consoles’…… -
Most radio mic systems will allow one transmitter and many receive units as you like (just like your local radio or TV station) …… BUT systems will not work by using multiple transmitter units into just one receiver, It just won’t work.
Radio mic systems that use the 2.4ghz frequency range have only just come onto the market recently and probably just below ‘pro’ level so a lot of critical trials probably haven’t been done. With other 2.4g units there is a lot of data going back and forth so it may not work for what you are trying to do.
‘Celebrating 40 years of Broadcasting Audio….
Started with Magnetic stripe and Sprocket holes to now Gigabytes and Touch Screen Mixing Consoles’…… -
If there is a delay in the system it will be in the Sony ‘Bluetooth’ link between the SD744 and the camera…. BUT the good thing it will be a constant regardless of what or where you are shooting. As a suggestion do some VERY critical testing at the office / studio prior to a shoot.
When you have determined any delay note it down, or keep the number in your brain as you will use it on every edit session.I once had a system that had a (-2 frame) difference on a particular analogue play out machine, so every time that machine was used in a production it was xx-xx-xx time code then minus 2 frames.
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With the price of SD cards these days EVERY new job gets a NEW card…. 4 or 8 Gig cards are a good size, put in the recorder and format, after you get the material from them put them in storage and HOLD on to them for your atmos library.
The cost of the card / batteries should be absorbed as ‘consumables’ in any production.A final word NEVER give the cards to the client, just like a photographer will never release the picture negatives / master files.
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If I can recall the +20 setting was get a hotter signal to get over the poor noise floor of DSLR cameras.
It comes down to a personal decision, if 50% of your work has speaking in it perhaps go the Rode if it was less than that I would go with the Audio Technica.
If you are going to continue to use the Zoom recorder then use that for dialogue and the camera mic just for Fx.
Remember with both the DSLR and Zoom H4n have less than brilliant noise floors, but should be Ok for youtube clips. -
The mics are VERY different, the Audio Technica is a stereo microphone (that can be switched to mono) and the Rode is a mono microphone only.
ANY microphone on top of ANY camera will deliver rather poor audio, yes you can use it as an Fx track but totally useless for spoken word as the mic is way to far away to deliver decent audio.
The reason why camera top mics are poor is will pick up even the slightest hand / finger movements on the lens etc.Recording on a DSLR might deliver good pictures but the audio recording circuitry is normally very poor, after all it is actually a ‘stills’ camera (yes it might record video but it is a ‘stills’ camera and has limitations)
What are you actually wanting the microphone to record, what sort of stuff are you shooting?
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What do you intend to use them for, and at what level you are at.
What Rode mics are you interested in?
What are you recording onto?If you are referring to shotgun mics for location shooting then the NTG1 or NTG 2 should be regarded as ‘hobby’ level only and NOT Pro level, the NTG3 (short) and NTG8 (long) shotgun mics are very good Pro level mics.
The Rode stereo mic (NT4) is very good and delivers good results.
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T or (12v AB) powering [same thing] does and will blow things up….. been there done that.
There should be NO reason to apply Phantom or T powering to a radio mic receiver……EVER.
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Have you adjusted the input level to suit high levels? (P 70 of the manual)
Also just checking that the ‘plug in power’ is turned off? (P 16 of the manual) -
Hang on doesn’t the recorder have ‘auto level?’ if so you won’t notice any difference as it will work out its own ‘correct’ level …BUT now with greater head room and isn’t this what the OP was wanting?