Blaise Douros
Forum Replies Created
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After Effects is the wrong program. You need to use Cinema 4D or similar 3D animation software to build a 3D model, animate them, and replace the bells in the shot. You can’t do it in AE, which is built for 2D compositing in 3D space.
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If you have a Creative Cloud subscription, you already have the tool you need: Adobe Media Encoder. You can set up a Watch Folder that transcodes anything you put in it to a format of your choice.
So my guess is that you could solve your problem by setting up a virtual machine on the QNAP, set a watch folder with Adobe Media Encoder, and off you go.
If it’s not possible to use the QNAP for shared storage AND a virtual machine, you’d have to buy a second machine to monitor the watch folder on the QNAP. Bob could speak to that better than me.
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Do a fresh, in-camera format of the card. Sometimes it screws things up when you delete files from it in your desktop OS.
The other thing to try is shooting a really overexposed scene. I don’t know why, but I find that when I’m using a card that’s slow, a really overexposed scene will get it to overflow the buffer faster.
You shouldn’t have much trouble with those card speeds, but you never know.
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You might double check that the camera isn’t set to Auto ISO. It will adjust exposure even in M mode.
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Nest it within a lower-framerate timeline, reduce that timeline’s size to a lower resolution, and then scale up the nested sequence within your final timeline.
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Yep. It’s a reflex lens. They suck for basically everything but astro.
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Autoexposure. Plus, it’s clear that your adapter does not allow your camera to talk to the lens. I already said that.
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Was it a really bright scene? And how fast is the card?
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The f-number is a ratio of the aperture size to the focal length, so it’s not a matter of the aperture changing when you zoom, it’s a matter of the focal length changing enough to alter the ratio. Higher-end lenses have a constant aperture, which adjusts the aperture based on the focal length to keep the ratio identical. If you don’t have one of those lenses, no adapter will help.
Ultimately, even a constant-aperture zoom doesn’t mean the exposure is the same; the Canon 24-105L, for example, is about a stop darker at 105mm than at 24mm, even though the constant aperture keeps the number at F/4. If you want constant exposure, you need to work with lenses that operate in T-stops, which means cine glass, which means lots of money.
This is a non-problem that you can’t change anyway without the application of huge amounts of money. Stop thinking about it and go shoot. If you’re worried about it, make sure you know how much exposure difference there is between the wide and tight ends of your lens, and adjust the exposure accordingly when setting up the shot. Unless you’re making a western, you won’t be doing much zooming while the camera’s rolling, anyway.
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On a modern lens with no aperture ring, there’s no other way to change the aperture setting–it can only be electronically controlled from the camera.
If your camera is not talking to the lens, then it’s a compatibility issue. There is absolutely nothing you can do about it, aside from finding another brand of 300mm lens that will talk to the camera, or maybe making sure your adapter’s firmware is up to date.
If you’re using a 3rd-party lens like Sigma or Tamron, those are rarely supported by the manufacturers of the adapters like Metabones. Even some of the more obscure first-party lenses don’t always work–I know Metabones doesn’t officially support all of the Canon EF catalogue on their adapters.