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  • yes. you need all light you can get for fast shutter. I was out today playing with my camera, filming my grand children! I used 1080 25p (PAL country) and 1/2000 shutter Iris 4 and gamma: Cine2. It is possible to film with that settings outdoor with the sky not overexposed and still have a good picture also in the shadows. No overexposure and it is possible to play with gamma after.
    Note that the lens is not iris 1.9 more than at wide angle. At fll zoom you have 2.8 so never shoot more opend than that.
    /BG

  • Bengt-goran Bengtsson

    May 2, 2009 at 2:43 pm in reply to: How to record time & date over video

    Hmm interesting.
    Today there are no “camera” master. What is origingal and what is copy in the digital world.

    Maybe it is nessesary to invent new ways of prof. If you turn on a radio station on a scene to prove the timecode and then continue to film? Then there will be a independant “stamp” in the film. But that is also possible to fake… But free running clock timecode together with that type of independant stamping…
    You can film your watch (analog) before shooting and then go to a police station and do the same…
    Maybe we need to talk to Sony to build in some features that is difficult to change. Like timecode embedded in the videocode itself. I think adobe has something like that in photoshop?

    I think time is essential here. After shooting, or during, you need a testemony, like a police telling the time… as soon as possible.
    But I have no leagal experience on this. I still think the “clock” timecode is the best so far…

    /BG

  • Bengt-goran Bengtsson

    May 1, 2009 at 6:18 pm in reply to: How to record time & date over video

    Terry,
    the best is to select timecode=clock!
    Enter Menu and down to TB/UB set-menu.
    Mode: select clock.
    /BG

  • Hi Rich,
    Do not forget to keep the ND filter OFF! and then select a shutter speed as high as possible in the light you have. Keep the IRIS around 4-5.6. I like a shutter 1/2000 for sports. Naturally it gives a “strobing” picture but that is what I whant. Each picture is sharp as can be. You can do a printout of each frame. 1080/30p (25p) is twice as sharp but but naturally twice as “stroby”.
    Maybe I also would select 7000K in a preset in a picture profile to give the picture a warm colour.
    /BG

  • Bengt-goran Bengtsson

    July 2, 2008 at 8:32 pm in reply to: XDCAM EX…. so noisy!

    I am longing to buy an EX1 but now…? I looked to some footage I shot at a Sony dealer. There is also noise. Compared to HDV Fx1: Almost no noise! Please post some frames with original .mp4 or .mxf file! Please shoot a second outside with sunshine and shadow in same picture! I am using Edius on a PC.

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