“So… can I just ignore the dpi as it is just a print thing- and resize the pixels so that each image is bigger- ( and by extension, the dpi is bigger) and will these bigger pixel dimensions mean better quality on screen?
No. It is akin to turning up the volume on audio that has lots of background noise, instead of raising the audio levels. As the other commenter noted, SD to HD will always make your images look lower quality anyway– are you editing in SD or HD?
Either way, if you can access an SD monitor and an HD monitor for your cutting room, you’ll have a fairly good idea of what your final product will look like, compared with your original footage. If you can only get one monitor, consider what your final delivery format will be and go with that. For example, if you’re going to be projecting in HD at festivals, definitely have an HD monitor so that you don’t get any rude surprises about what your SD footage will look like once it’s being stretched across the much higher-rez HD signals.
As far as your stills, the only way you can make your smaller dpi images look better when you resize them in FCP is to vectorize them. For this, I use Adobe Illustrator, though there are other programs than can be used to accomplish this. A vector file allows you to enlarge and reduce your image without loss of any quality. This requires some work, and the process in this case isn’t failsafe– you’ll almost definitely have to bring your pictures back into Photoshop and finesse them a bit to make them look acceptable. This may require some painting in the backgrounds, or blurring areas to create smoother lines– it all depends on the quality of the original image though. When you’re starting from a low-res image to begin with, you’re fighting an uphill battle. I’d give this a shot though, esp. if you’re going to be projecting onto larger screens.
Here’s one way to convert your .psd files into vectors:
Right-click/control-click on the file you want to vectorize, and select “Open with,” then select “Illustrator” from the options. Choose to convert layers to objects or flatten all of the layers into a single image in the “Photoshop Import Options” dialog box that appears. Choose “Flatten Layers to a Single Image” option for most photographs. Click “OK.”
Alternatively, you can open your file in Photoshop first then flatten it there. I strongly suggest making a copy of your .PSD file first, by control-clicking it and selecting “Duplicate” from the pop-up. Flattening layers isn’t something you can undo after you have saved your file as a flattened image in Photoshop. Then, open your flattened .PSD file in Illustrator.
Select “Object,” then”Live Trace,” and “Tracing Options” from the menu at the top of the page. Select “Photo High Fidelity” from the Preset drop-down in the dialogue box, and set the Max Colors slider to “256.” This will create paths as close as possible to the paths in your .PSD file. Click “Trace.”
NOTE – if you don’t see the “Trace” option, click “Okay” to close the dialogue box, then click “okay” in the menu bar and see if it appears there. This may vary somewhat in different versions of Illustrator.
From the “Object” menu, now select “Expand.” This will convert the trace into paths, thereby vectorizing your image.
Select “File” and “Save As” from the application menu, enter a name for your new file and select either “.ai” or “.eps” from the Format drop-down. These are the common vector file formats– “.ai” is the proprietary format for Illustrator, and “.eps” is a more universal format which can be edited in other vector programs.
So, after all this, you may still want to bring your file into Photoshop again (do make another copy first, as a backup), and add some blurs, etc, to even out the more pixellated areas. I don’t know if Photoshop Elements will let you do this, but it’s worth a try at least.
I wouldn’t panic if your attempts to vectorize your images aren’t perfect, for if they are slightly lower-res to begin with, they’ll probably match the SD footage more closely.
If they’re really grainy and unviewable, another option might be to either scan high-res versions of the pictures, or take photos of them with a digital camera set to a high res capture mode. I know in a doc it’s not always possible to return to all your sources, but suggesting that as a last-ditch effort if all else fails.
Hope this helps!
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Final Cut Pro 7 For Non-Editors
https://practicalfcp.publishpath.com