What should my next HDLSR lens be?

[Noah Kadner]

I’d get a wider zoom range- those are really narrow i.e. you won’t feel much different than another prime.

Noah

Unlock the secrets of 24p, HD and Final Cut Studio with Call Box Training. Featuring the Panasonic GH2 and GoPro HD Hero.

[Ali Hassan]

So what do you suggest? coz I read philipbloom suggesting it on his blog so thought it might be a good buy..

[Noah Kadner]

Sure that’s a great lens but it’s a short range and that leaves a huge hole in your focal range up to 50mm. I’d be hard pressed to stick with just one lens. I’d consider getting a couple, then it’s more down to how much you have to spend.

Noah

Unlock the secrets of 24p, HD and Final Cut Studio with Call Box Training. Featuring the Panasonic GH2 and GoPro HD Hero.

[Ali Hassan]

Well at the moment I can only spend on just the one lens so that was the reason I was oonsidering this wide angle lens..

[Errol Lazare]

Definitely good to have more than one lens. In my most bar bones kit I have a 16-35mm 50mm and 70-200, mind you I shoot on a 5D which is full frame so you will want something meant for the cropped sensor. I’d recommend getting a zoom lens that gives you a wide angle and telephoto and then later you can get more specialty lenses. My 7D has a 15-85 which is pretty good or you can get the 18-135 Check the link:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/647015-GREY/Canon_3558B002_EF_S_18_135mm_f_3_5_5_6_IS.html

In the long run it is best to get specialty lenses and primes to capture the shots they were built for but in the short run a good variable zoom lens is the best solution.

Cheers,

Errol X. Lazare
EXL Films
http://www.exlfilms.com

[Noah Kadner]

yeah the lens you want it definitely a solid enough choice. Just be aware it’s a pretty big jump from that to the lens you have so you might find yourself using one or the other but not both on the same shoot that much. But it’s a nice addition so try it out.

Noah

Unlock the secrets of 24p, HD and Final Cut Studio with Call Box Training. Featuring the Panasonic GH2 and GoPro HD Hero.

[Bill Doyle]

Ali,

You might want to consider the Canon EF-S 17-55. As Noah advised, it will avoid the hole of the 11-16 (I have that lens also), it has a constant aperture of 2.8 which is decently fast and great for video and also image stabilization. The one drawback is that it is made for the cropped sensor cameras like yours, so if you’ll be moving to a 5D, it’s not the way to go.

Bill

[Ali Hassan]

Hey!

The Cannon 17-55 is a great lens! but also comes with a huge price tag 🙁 and right now I cant spend that much.
But one of my friend recommended to get the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 VC as opposed to Tokina 11-16…

What do u guys think? is it a wise move to make?

Thanks

[Bill Doyle]

Ali,

The reviews for the non VC lens have been good and I believe there is a rebate on it currently. The main difference will be the lack of image stabilization, but if you keep that in mind while you shoot it shouldn’t pose that much of a problem at those focal lengths (not a sacrifice I’d be willing to make on something like the Canon 70-200).

In general, I would always advise doing the most research on lenses as opposed to bodies. Most of the good lenses have a shelf life of at least 10 years.

Bill

[Bob Cole]

I just came across a neat website, dofmaster.com, which provides a depth of focus calculator. So I guess I already have access to the technical answer to my question. But I would like to know what you DSLR experts think, so here it is:

What is the “minimum maximum” when you’re looking at a lens? iow – for a Canon 7d, would you automatically reject a lens with a maximum aperture less than, say f/2.8? Ditto, for a full-frame camera?

Thanks.

Bob C