Tascam DR-40 audio level suddenly low using lavelier

[Richard Crowley]

I see NO mention of receivers here anywhere? Your recorder should NOT pick up ANY wireless transmitter. You would need a RECEIVER to pick up the wireless signal, and then feed it into the recorder.

You talk about all these transmitters and microphones, but without similar details about the RECEIVERS, it is anybody’s guess.

[James Buck]

The receivers are the matched pair as the transmitters, all the same info applies. Any ideas?

[Richard Crowley]

The most obvious detail would seem to be the output level setting of the receiver. Can you swap the microphones between bodypacks (transmitters). Are the transmitter/receiver sets in the same frequency band? i.e. can you try receiving different transmitters and going to different receivers?

The key to identifying the problem is to swap ONE thing at a time and see if it makes a difference or not:

Microphone -> Transmitter -> Receiver -> Recorder

[James Buck]

Thanks for the idea. I have tried the output level on the receiver and restoring all factory settings. I don’t have another pack on the same frequency band.

BUT – a thought occurs.

The bodypack/transmitter work fine when I connect them to my laptop using a mini-to-mini cable.

The bodypack/transmitter DON’T work right when I connect to Tascam using a mini-to-XLR cable. I recently lost the original mini-to-XLR from Sennheiser and have been using a backup, which works fine in other situations.

Looking at Sennheiser’s info, the audio out of the G3 receiver is ‘unbalanced’ and the original cable is meant to work with ‘unbalanced’ audio. I don’t know what the replacement cable is. Could that be the issue?

Thanks much.

[Eric Toline]

The output connection on a G3 receiver is unbalanced & the mic level XLR input on the DR40 is balanced. Wired correctly the cable will have the positive going from the tip of the 3.5mm TRS connector & to pin 2 of the XLR. The cable shield/ground will go from the ground connection on the 3.5mm connector to pins 1 & 3 of the XLR. Open your XLR and check to make sure it’s wired as I described. I’ve made hundreds of G2/3 output cables wired exactly like that and everyone works perfectly for the job.

Eric

“I push the RECORD button and hope for the best”

[Richard Crowley]

Yes, your replacement cable sounds like a PRIME SUSPECT in this case.
As Mr. Toline explained, it must be wired in a particular way to work properly. This is no place for a random, generic cable.

[James Buck]

Thank you very much, I’ve ordered an original replacement. I didn’t realize they would have different properties. I really appreciate the help sorting this out as it has been a major setback for me.

thanks all.

[Eric Toline]

If you ordered the original Sennheiser cable it’s not a matter of if it will fail but when. Every Sennheiser output cable I have made was as a replacement for the original Sennheiser cable. Their cable is not repairable as the connectors are molded onto the cable itself. Wondering what the new cable cost was?

Eric

“I push the RECORD button and hope for the best”

[James Buck]

I ordered the original CL-100 from Germany, the blue one, not the newer one people say is cheaper. It was 10 Euros.

How do I open my XLR cable to look at it as you describe? Like, slice it open?

thanks.

[Eric Toline]

Unscrew the rubber boot at the back of the XLR connector and push the connector block & the cable clamp out towards the back from the front of the connector.

“I push the RECORD button and hope for the best”