Replace Jack on ew-100 Lav Mic

[Richard Crowley]

If you have several, you can look at the others to see how they are wired. Or you can just look at the broken one to see how it is wired.

[Bill Davis]

I’ve got to also chime in and note that in the modern equipment era, soldering isn’t what it used to be.

When I learned the craft, a typical circuit board had wired the size of small worms and even a guy like me with fingers the size of cigars and all the dexterity of an arthritic cloven hoof horse could solder.

Today, you’re likely to strip the dang wires and find a little string of mono-filimaent lovingly wrapped by a foil connector the size and relative stability of a gnats pubic hair.

The last two times I’ve pulled out my soldering iron, then opened up something like a headphone cup or a mic casing I’ve put it back nearly as fast.

If you can DIY in this brave new modern era of electronics manufacturing, I bow to you.

For what it’s worth.

[Ty Ford]

Bill,

Soldering IRON! That’s a big thing! Even my Weller gun is too big for these fixes. You need a little pencil and a big magnifying glass to do this.

Maybe ask Eric Toline down in Florida to see what he’d charge. He has done well with the fiddly bits for me in the past. He’s a good friend and he knows the Sennheiser G2 and (I think) G3.

Eric Toline: 954-255-7628
audioetc@bellsouth.net

Regards,

Ty Ford

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[Bill Davis]

Ty,

I wasn’t the OP, but I’m still writing down Eric’s name.

I guess I’m at the point in my career where if a set of cans start going intermittant – I’ll pass them down to Mikey and Pull out the checkbook.

Like all other generations before his, current music seems designed less for memorability and more for the purpose of making the older generation suffer. Even the melodic stuff out there now like Owl City can drive you nuts when it’s on in the house 24/7.

Take care, friend.

[Ty Ford]

Dear Bill,

A. Was it all that far to nuts from where you are now? 🙂

B. Isn’t that what they said about Elvis?

Regards,

Ty Ford

PS Happy Holiday. I’m sure glad you’re here to enrich this forum.

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[Erik Boles]

Thanks to all for the advice. I have been soldering for 30+ years now and that isn’t my concern. I have done everything from board level repair to some of the smallest audio gear wires.

More importantly, I was looking for electrical diagrams of the G2/G3 series. they are molded plugs, so I cannot take it apart to see how it is wired, I need to chop the wire and put on a new plug, but I need to know which one goes to tip and which one to the barrel.

thanks,

Erik

Erik Boles
https://ErikBoles.com
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[Mark Palmos]

[Bill Davis] “Today, you’re likely to strip the dang wires and find a little string of mono-filimaent lovingly wrapped by a foil connector the size and relative stability of a gnats pubic hair. “

lol
its probably your eyesight mate!
but i know what you mean.

[Mark Palmos]

[Erik Boles] “More importantly, I was looking for electrical diagrams of the G2/G3 series. they are molded plugs, so I cannot take it apart to see how it is wired, I need to chop the wire and put on a new plug, but I need to know which one goes to tip and which one to the barrel.
“

Erik did you find out, I have the same problem with mine.
I guess a scalpel and some patience might work 😉

[Ty Ford]

My friend Eric Toline does this sort of work here in the states. He’s frequently on the forum. Lemme see what I can do.

Regards,

Ty Ford
Cow Audio Forum Leader

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[Eric Toline]

Easy to do. Cut the molded plug off about 2″ from the end of the cable. Strip the outer insulation from the short wire. Hook up a multimeter to the stripped wire and to the tip, if you get continuity then that wire in the long end goes to the tip of the new 3.5mm TRS plug. Do the same test, this time to the shield of the old plug with the untested conductor. Which ever one gives you continuuity to the shield goes to the shield of the new plug.

Eric

“I push the RECORD button and hope for the best”