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ND filter problems w/ HVX 200
No the ND switch works fine 😉
My “problem” is that when the camera requests that I need to go to 1/64 that the footage looks too dark. If I take the filter down to 1/8 it overexposes. I have tried alternate gamma settings but same issue. I never had this problem with my Sony VX-2000 so I am not sure where to start looking for a solution.
I am willing to do the research if someone can give me a starting point.
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11 Replies
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Well you also have to compensate with your iris setting. The ND should typically be used only when outdoors. You can also use your zebras to set the right exposure. The manual goes over how.
Noah
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The iris is set to auto as I cannot lock in a setting due to going from land – sky – land – sky (recording moving RC helicopters). Example video 1 minute in. If I was on a standard shoot yes I could lock everything in.
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Daniel C. Slagle -
Well the HVX ain’t really a crash cam. You cannot realistically expect ideal results from any camera set to auto exposure. That said you can change the automatic exposure to be more or less above what it considers to be ideal- again via the manual.
Noah
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Well I have tried that too I must be missing something obvious to everyone else. I ended up buying both Barry Greens book and the Bootcamp DVD to try and figure out what that is.
Thank for trying…
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Daniel C. Slagle -
Normally in a camera with a real iris you would target an f-stop or a t-stop and work with ND filters (or shutter, gamma…etc) to achieve a desire look. Since the HVX does not have a real aperture, I am aim for an f-stop for maximum sharpness. Now the 1/8 to 1/64 ND is a 2 stop decrease in exposure but I use a matte box with .3 and .6 ND filter to achieve the intermediate steps. That might be the solution you are looking for. Also using ND filters with Sky gradients is a good alternative.
Cheers,
Emre
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Boxx Tech PC, dual-dual AMD 2.0,4BG ram,Avidexpress HD w/Mojo,UVW-1800,DSR-25, Adobe Premium CS3.Gspeed ES.Steadicam OP/Owner.“Creative cow is udder madness.”
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Your link to a sample video didn’t work for me but it sounds like you would be up against strong back lighting (while aiming at the sky) and then must deal with normal available light when you have ground as the back ground.
For the latter, you can use auto but for back lit sky shots you have to let the sky wash out and expose for the model only. Get the model to hover 10 feet off the ground or have someone hold it up high in the direction you’re shooting in and zoom into to it so only the body fills the entire frame. Now set your exposure on manual so it is correctly exposed. You can zoom out and shoot like this but the sky will wash out for the sky shots. The model will remain properly exposed as long as you always shoot in the same direction or the light doesn’t change (sun goes behind a cloud or actually sets etc.).
Try shooting with late direct evening sun from behind you. That should yield the best results. That way the sun becomes the main light or strongest light and sky as well as ground type back grounds will film well.
The only other way to shoot it is to have someone focus a powerful spot light on the model chopper to illuminate it enough to match the exposure to the sky.
“everything is broken” ……1st. coined by Esther Philips I believe.
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Yes I think I understand
Here is a GOOD link and the ever changing fast moving objects I have to deal with.
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Daniel C. Slagle -
Wow, that’s some video! I noticed the grass seems taller just out of range of the helicopters. Can you mow grass with these things? Can the tail rotter be used for lawn edging? It sure looks like it in the video. I’m ready to get into the landscaping business. 🙂
“everything is broken” ……1st. coined by Esther Philips I believe.
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Like NASCAR, people are sponsored and pilots are that good. 🙂
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Daniel C. Slagle -
[Emre Tufekci] “Since the HVX does not have a real aperture”
Why do you say that? Of course it has a real aperture. Doesn’t have the same control ring, but there’s a physical multi-bladed aperture in there.
[Emre Tufekci] “Now the 1/8 to 1/64 ND is a 2 stop decrease in exposure”
Actually the 1/8 is 3 stops, and the 1/64 is another 3 stops (so each filter position is like using a .9 ND).
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