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Monitor Calibration
Hi, folks. I’ve had a couple clients mention that their finished projects, which look stellar on my monitor, appear dark on their (consumer) screens. One time I can blame the client. More than once…
I know there are pros who will calibrate for a fee, and if anyone has a recommendation for an LA based guy I’d appreciate it. But what hardware devices do you folks use to calibrate on your own? The Datacolor Spyders get a lot of mention, but I’ve seen some still photo guys talking some major crap about them so now I’m confused. I’m willing to invest some cash in a device that’ll aid my professional work, and last for a few years.
Thanks!
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7 Replies
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Dave at avical. Very good. Reasonable.
http://www.4Kfinish.com | owner-colorist | Hollywood, CA
http://www.facebook.com/4kFinish -
His name popped up in a different thread and I just sent a message via his website. The thread was from a couple years ago so I’m glad to see he’s still doing his thing.
Do you personally use any hardware devices, or do you always have a service calibrate for you? If the former, what do you like to use?
Thanks!
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I use Dave. The real gear and software is not practical to buy for a small shop. Many thousands of dollars. IMHO
http://www.4Kfinish.com | owner-colorist | Hollywood, CA
http://www.facebook.com/4kFinish -
Dave is also a really nice guy who will share his knowledge with you and give you a 9 page before/after calibration report (excerpt below).
https://www.avical.com
(877) 428-4225
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I have an appointment with Dave tomorrow. Here’s a follow-up. It if turns out my calibration has been substantially off, how do you recommend compensating, considering I’m most of the way through a project? By habit I always leave Node 1 blank so I can create a basic look on the Node 1s of all the shots for getting the footage to normal. Or would assigning a LUT to the whole project make more sense?
Thanks!
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Easiest way is to add a node in Track Mode. Manual p482. That way you can tweak the overall as you go. If you get to a scene that the overall doesn’t work, put a mark at the head and tail of the scene to isolate it.
Just don’t forget the correction is there!
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Dave was indeed a great guy who explained everything I needed to know. And adding a node in Track Mode took me all of 15 minutes to compensate for the change in calibration (and most of that time was just scrubbing through the timeline to make sure everything looked uniformly proper).
Thanks again for the advice & help!
-Jesse
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