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  • Moire patterns and 24 p when you can’t go topless

    Posted by Jim Brodie on December 1, 2006 at 12:00 pm

    Hi folks,

    I’ve been using the 100a for over a year primarily in 24p mode (rarely advanced mode)and on a recent shoot noticed some horrible moire patterning on a subject wearing a striped shirt. I know the drill on what subjects shouldn’t wear but it was a situation where it was either wing it or tell the president of the company to go topless. Anyway, I wonder if next time I should adjust the core detail to avoid these visual vibrations.

    I’m going on the road recording motorcycles with lots of close patterning details on the grills etc. and need some advice – Is 24p the culprit or should I use 30p and forgo the film look?

    Also, I’ve noticed that the exposure changes in 24p when I zoom out – is this the shutter automatically adjusting – I’ve heard that in 24p mode you have no control over this, eventhough I’m in manual exposure and the shutter control is off.

    Cheers,

    Jim

    Jim Brodie replied 19 years, 5 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Noah Kadner

    December 1, 2006 at 4:35 pm

    Make sure you’re actually in manual- it should not change at all. Moire cannot be completely avoided on NTSC.

    -Noah

  • Barry Green

    December 3, 2006 at 4:47 am

    [jimbrodie] “Anyway, I wonder if next time I should adjust the core detail to avoid these visual vibrations.”
    That may help a little, but mainly just zoom in or zoom out a little. Changing focal length can greatly minimize the problem.

    [jimbrodie] “Is 24p the culprit or should I use 30p and forgo the film look?”

    Definitely not, it happens in all modes.

    [jimbrodie] “Also, I’ve noticed that the exposure changes in 24p when I zoom out – is this the shutter automatically adjusting – I’ve heard that in 24p mode you have no control over this, eventhough I’m in manual exposure and the shutter control is off.”

    It has nothing to do with the shutter, or 24p. What’s happening is that the lens maximum aperture is smaller at the telephoto end of the scale. So at full telephoto the best it can do is f/2.8, but at full wide angle it can be as wide-open as f/1.6 so, as you zoom out, it’s possible for the lens to open more and more. If you set a fixed aperture of f/2.8 or smaller (meaning, somewhere between f/2.8 to f/16), then no exposure change will happen.

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  • Jim Brodie

    December 8, 2006 at 2:35 pm

    Thanks Barry. I’ve just purchased your book. Have you been happy with the Panasonic HD 200?
    Is the P2 technology been reliable? I’ve stay away from HDV cameras because of the compression.

    Cheers,

    Jim

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