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  • making small objects large scale

    Posted by Afrancis on February 8, 2008 at 11:13 am

    Hi guys,
    I am about to embark on a uni project which will involve me filming moulds of various objects. I will be using a sony PD170 camcorder to film it and editing in FCP/motion and AE. The problem i am having is the moulds are quite small. for example one of my moulds is of a computer which is only 11cm by 10cm. I want to know how i can make it look a realistic size by blowing up the scale using any effects abit like honey i shrunk the kids or blew up the kids movie. also in any stop animation movie like wallace and gromit/toystory etc it looks realistic even tho the model armatures are small. Is there a setting in my camera that can do this or is it all edited in the software? any links to tutorials/books would be much apprecited thanks for all help
    Alison

    Martti Ekstrand replied 18 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Thaxter Clavemarlton

    February 8, 2008 at 12:54 pm

    This is really a CAMERA question, far more than editing.
    (Sony, Panasonic, Canon, and JVC camera forums on the COW come to mind.)

    You need a micro/macro lens system to shoot small items.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macro_photography

    http://www.imaginghardware.com/Products/Lenses/P40035.aspx

    Even though you can find “Macro Adapters” to fit onto the front of standard lenses, they do not usually yield the best quality images.
    The PD 150, with its permanently-attached standard lens may not be the best choice for this task.

  • Martti Ekstrand

    February 8, 2008 at 2:49 pm

    This is mostly neither a editing/compositing application or camera problem but more a model design/making issue. Generally if you want models to appear photo realistic in ‘close quarter’ settings (ie; humans won’t look out of place in the scene) you cannot go below 1:10 scale but it still makes for lot of careful and time consuming model construction. Not to mention space consuming. HO model railroad scale (1:87) will never look good for anything but distant backgrounds, think Blade Runner cityscapes or LotR size castles. Water/fire/smoke really don’t scale well below 1:4 btw. Once the models are properly built you still have to light them just as well as a live action set or better and you need lots of light as well to make the depth-of-field match what it would look like in full scale.

    A good resource for learning about model making for film are the coffee-table books from Industrial Light & Magic and also old issues of Cinefex from 80s / 90s. Also get some making-of books about Aardman movies like Chicken Run or Wallace & Gromit.

    Back issues of Cinefex can be found at https://www.cinefex.com, Chicken Run is covered in great detail in issue 82 and The Corpses Bride has a nice little article in #104. The LotR issues are also worth getting as they utilized a lot of ‘bigatures’ in tandem with CGI.

    This may seem daunting but remember that Nick Park started the first W&G film ‘A Grand Day Out’ as a uni project and in a later stage Aardman got involved in finishing the film.

    cheers

  • Afrancis

    February 8, 2008 at 3:44 pm

    thanks, i read somewhere that you can use a positioning technique called hanging foreground which involves putting the model at a certain distance from the nodal point of your lens which would make it appear enlarged. Do you know about this effect?

  • Martti Ekstrand

    February 8, 2008 at 11:50 pm

    [Alison Francis] “Do you know about this effect?”

    Yup, it’s a in-camera composite trick conceived in a time where not even optical printers was a option. Georges Méliès did it in the 1902 special effects extravaganza ‘A Trip to the Moon’. These days you might as well add it in post-production instead unless you really want to do hard-core old-school VFX. Citizen Kane is one film full of very advanced set-ups using that method.

    cheers

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