I need to build a “squeezer”, pronto! Need guidance.

[Mark Suszko]

Actually, I regret the snippiness now, I’ve had a tough month, but I shouldn’t let it affect me like that. It’s just that I took express pains to cover all the other bases alluded to in the very first post, specifically to eliminate a lot of wasted time going over the alternatives I’ve already ruled out and going off-topic into algternatives already explored. So if you read the first post, you already know what I can and can’t do. When I read a new thread, I may have a response ready to pop right then, but I try to hold off until I’ve read the whole thread first, for the same reason. Someone else may have already covered it. But I shouldn’t have gone for the easy zinger there, and I’m sorry. If I can get some sailing time in this weekend, I’m sure I’ll be a better man next week.

[Bill Davis]

For the newbies, yes, I’d HIGHLY recommend you build your own. You’ll learn a good bit about simple electrical device construction which is great. (no real electronics knowledge is needed since most of these I’ve ever encountered are really just packaged Lutron dimmers in a field box.)

But I’ll still argue that there’s a place for the HF units in many kits.

Mark, you don’t like the lesser range, and I get that. But combined with a standard scrim kit, that 25% dimming will get you a pretty WIDE range of output possibilities – with less color shift than if you cut off the light intensity by using a LUTRON style squeezer to dim it further for mere convenience.

And ignoring the time value of one’s efforts, a Lutron 600w dimmer, weatherproof box, cable, plugs, and weatherproof i/o fittings will likely run you $30-40 for each squeezer you make. Trivial enough in itself, but for a 5 light kit, that can add up fast.

Once again, horses for courses.

“Before speaking out ask yourself whether your words are true, whether they are respectful and whether they are needed in our civil discussions.”-Justice O’Conner

[Bob Cole]

I have three dimmers. One is very cheap, looks like the Harbor Freight dimmers, and works just fine. I use it to control my Source Four. The others are “flicker/dimmers” from Magic Gadgets. Rather expensive, but solid (although I have had to repair the socket on one). I use their 2K Flicker/Dimmer and the “Shadowmaker,” which controls three outputs on separate lines, and can generate effects such as “chases,” candlelight, bonfires, or lightning. I’ve simulated a glowing tv set as well. Even when used just as dimmers, the Magic Gadgets devices are great — they can start with very little current, instead of needing a certain (medium) level to make the circuit work. When used for flicker, the MG Flicker/Dimmers control minimum and maximum values for each line.

I use the Flicker function rarely; I use the Shadowmaker mainly as a lightboard for my sit-down interviews. I put the Shadowmaker near my camera, and control the intensity of hairlights, lighting on chroma key backgrounds, and an eyelight.

Wikipedia has some interesting articles on the inner workings of dimmers; my main take-away is that some dimmers dissipate energy in the form of heat, and others actually draw less electricity.

Bob C