While it’s true that an HDSLR will shoot excellent video as well as photos, it is still largely a photo device from the workflow point of view. There are many things that aren’t quite tuned for video.
For example, on the D7000, you can’t change your aperture while shooting video… I can, with my Canon 60D. This is largely because Canon reacted to user feedback, like enabling manual controls for video, in the early days of the 5D Mk II, and added them as they went along.
Auto-focus is another issue. If you don’t use it, no worries. But both of these cameras get it wrong. Canon knowns they get it wrong… autofocus in video works like it does in stills — you press the shutter release to force a focus. Nikon has it free running, like you’d expect of a video camera. The problem — and this is true of nearly every still camera that added video — is that they still use a still camera focusing algorithm. When you’re shooting a still, the object is the fastest possible focus. So the camera will rapidly seek up and down to find the focus. In video, what you want is a fairly slow autofocus, that doesn’t make minute adjustments that’ll be visible in the video.
And then there’s audio. No HDSLR has good microphones. I could extend that to claim that no camcorder has good built-in mics, and that would be true. Only, they’re just worse in the HDSLRs. And of course, you can’t even connect a professional mic direcly to any HDSLR, you need an interface for XLR + Phantom power, like one of the Beachtek adapters. Or a secondary recorder… the Zoom H4n is kind of the standard for HDSLR use these days, largely because it’s not much more expensive than a Beachtek adapter, records audio at 96/24, takes two XLR mics, provides phantom power (though honestly, if you’re doing much shooting, you need external power to keep it going), and can pass audio through to the HDSLR’s audio input.
Video rates vary quite a bit, too… most consumer/prosumer camcorders shoot AVC at 24Mb/s peak. The D7000 offers something similar, around 22Mb/s, and also a 12Mb/s mode; the 60D shoots at 44Mb/s. However, both simply stop recording after the file size hits 4GB (even on an SDXC card, which is not subject to the 4GB limits).. meaning the Canon gives me a maximum of 10-12 minutes, while you’ll get about 20-something minutes on the Nikon, before you have to re-start the shoot. For some kinds of video, that’s a deal-breaker (I shoot lots of soccer — I use my “real” Panasonic HMC40 camcorder for that).
Anyway, enough of that. If you’re trying to shoot video that looks like film, yeah, 24p is the way to go. You want to shoot 24p (probably 23.976), not resample or convert from 30p. You may also want to adjust the color curve of the camera to something more film-like, though that’s possible in editing, too. And where possible, you’d like to shoot at a fixed shutter speed, maybe even thinking in terms of “degress of shutter” as one would for a film camera (eg, 1/48th second at 24p is a 180-degree shutter). What we accept as a proper film look is tied to amount of motion blur you’re going to capture. So bring ND filters.
Also, read the COW print article on “Film Fading to Black” https://magazine.creativecow.net/issue/film-fading-to-black. Make one wonder if the look of film will last, or if it’s maybe going to fade away as well.
-Dave