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Best Film-Like Settings?
I have a shoot tomorrow using the Varicam and I’m trying to figure out what the best “FILM LOOK” frame rate to use. I believe this camera always records at 60i with flagged frames? Correct? Is that going to give me the best look?
Should we shoot at a regular frame rate (59.97/60i) or use the 24p method to gain a film like look?
We will be ingesting with HD/SDI into a Kona2 using Final Cut Pro 5 on a dual 2.8 Mac G5.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Michael W.
313.580.9494 -
2 Replies
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Michael,
The Varicam is a “progressive” camera, and as such writes 60p (progressive) frames per second. When in 24p rate (which exactly mimics the speed of a sync sound camera, the Varicam writes the 60 frames (per second) with the 3:2 pulldown included. Many NLE systems then “extract” the “A” frames to create a 24p project. This sames an enourmous amount of bandwidth and storage requirement (24 is 40% of 60).
The best way to conceptualize it is to consider the DVPRO100 footage as what would emerge from telecine after you’ve converted your 24fps film to tape for editing or exhibition. The bonus is that with the flagged frames you can remove all but the discreet/individual frames for the purpose I mentioned above.
In addition, of course, the Varicam can record at other frame rates, in this case imitating the over and undercranking that is popssible with some film cameras. A hardware or software (in FCP) conversion converts it back for insertion in a 24 or 30fps project.
In addition to frame rate, the Varicam has electronic settings in it’s “Film Rec” menu that imitate the gamma curve of film. The “dynamic range” replaces conventional knee point and slope with four presets known as 200,300,400 and 500% which crush the blacks and whites effectively lowering the contract so that it can be added back in when “filmed out” on a laser or other type of printer.
If your project is not intended for this “film our” process where the finished tape is converted to film for exhibition on a conventional “movie” projector, but rather shown on television (or even a digital projector) I advise using the lower settings of “dynamic range” such as 200 or 300% to minimize post production color correction and to get more of a what-you-see-is-what-you-get (WUSIWUG) look.
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Did you even take the time to test out the camera to create your own filmic look or do you intend to show up and just wing it and hope for the best?
In order to maximize any technology it is your responsibilty to educate yourself on what can and can’t be done with hand’s on training or at minimum consider hiring a qualified DIT or VC to assist you with the look you are trying to create.
Tony Salgado
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